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Whale Inlet Socket – With Integrated Pressure

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Post by Johnuready Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:13 pm

My conclusion:

1) My 2011 Broadway has no float switch
2) My solenoid valve works from the pressure switch only.

The reason why others have posted they think their valve is always open, it's not working correctly and faulty.

A valve that is faulty will open under mains pressure with no power to the solenoid, its forces the valve flap open and allows a fast fill. If you are the filling with the faulty solenoid and put power on the coil, the flap part opens and restricts the flow ie a slow fill.

I have removed the valve and cleaned it completely, its stilll works as a faulty valve. Must be the seal around the flap perhaps.

The reason why the valve allows water through from the mains water is the pressure that opens the valve. The reason why I have a slow fill from my whale roller ball pump is that the pressure is much lower.

Im taking my solenoid out and putting 12 volts directly to the Wale filler allowing the roller ball to work and mains pressure connection will work ok.
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Post by Caraman Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:26 pm

Johnuready wrote:
Im taking my solenoid out and putting 12 volts directly to the Wale filler allowing the roller ball to work and mains pressure connection will work ok.
This seems the right thing to do especially if there is no float valve.  It should increase the life of the Whale pump if it's not pushing against a half open valve and a clogged filter.
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Post by Caraman Sun Apr 18, 2021 9:25 am

Just noticed a small consequence of removing the solenoid valve.  If the whale pump is switched off at the control panel or float valve if there is one, but it is left connected to the whale inlet socket, water can syphon out of the fresh water tank back through the pump.  This is remedied by removing the pump from the inlet socket when it is not being used which is a normal thing to do.  The same would apply if a hose pipe is left connected to the inlet after it has been disconnected from the mains supply.
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Post by Johnuready Sun Apr 18, 2021 9:44 am

Caraman wrote:Just noticed a small consequence of removing the solenoid valve.  If the whale pump is switched off at the control panel or float valve if there is one, but it is left connected to the whale inlet socket, water can syphon out of the fresh water tank back through the pump.  This is remedied by removing the pump from the inlet socket when it is not being used which is a normal thing to do.  The same would apply if a hose pipe is left connected to the inlet after it has been disconnected from the mains supply.

Good Point about the syphon effect. Us chaps with the EC328 do not have a separate switched circuit on our control panel for switching on the whale external roller ball pump. 12volt is  permanently on the whale master socket. With no float switch in the tank and relying on the correct operation of the whale master socket pressure switch working correctly, I will always disconnect my hose to the roller ball. For owners who have other versions of the control panel with a switched pump feed I think there is a one way flap in the whale master socket to stop syphoning?
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Post by Caraman Sun Apr 18, 2021 9:57 am

Johnuready wrote:
For owners who have other versions of the control panel with a switched pump feed I think there is a one way flap in the whale master socket to stop syphoning?
When I dismantled my 2019 inlet socket last year I didn't see a flap valve.
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Post by Johnuready Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:07 am

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Post by Johnuready Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:08 am

This is the kit I was thinking of buying for my master socket.
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Post by PLOUGHLIN Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:25 am

Johnuready wrote:
Caraman wrote:Just noticed a small consequence of removing the solenoid valve.  If the whale pump is switched off at the control panel or float valve if there is one, but it is left connected to the whale inlet socket, water can syphon out of the fresh water tank back through the pump.  This is remedied by removing the pump from the inlet socket when it is not being used which is a normal thing to do.  The same would apply if a hose pipe is left connected to the inlet after it has been disconnected from the mains supply.

Good Point about the syphon effect. Us chaps with the EC328 do not have a separate switched circuit on our control panel for switching on the whale external roller ball pump. 12volt is  permanently on the whale master socket. With no float switch in the tank and relying on the correct operation of the whale master socket pressure switch working correctly, I will always disconnect my hose to the roller ball. For owners who have other versions of the control panel with a switched pump feed I think there is a one way flap in the whale master socket to stop syphoning?

My EC328, and the EC325 before it, has an external pump option in the control panel, internal/external/both are the options.

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Post by Johnuready Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:32 am

Thanks Peter, I’ll check that out when we get home.
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Post by PLOUGHLIN Sun Apr 18, 2021 10:34 am

Johnuready wrote:Thanks Peter, I’ll check that out when we get home.

In the options menu, not buttons on the face plate.

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Post by bolero boy Sun Apr 18, 2021 6:27 pm

...and some say the Truma Combi is complex....scratch head
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Post by Johnuready Thu May 13, 2021 5:03 pm

I have just checked my control panel and it looks like the panel fitted to the 2011 Broadway does not have the option for Pump Select. The menu goes from "Battery Current" to "Clock Set". My handbook that came with the Broadway shows the extra menu step for the pump. Perhaps as my model is one of the last Broadway of that shape they fitted an older panel.

As I have now removed the solenoid, replaced with pipe I can fill the tank in 5 minutes. Never filled that quick before. I will now need to find a 12 Volt and chassis ground to power up the Whale Pump when used with a roller ball.
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Post by Peter Brown Fri May 14, 2021 2:31 pm

On the control panel 'home' screen, is the ECxxx the same model as the power unit and which model is installed (I guess EC325 or EC328)?
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Post by Johnuready Fri May 14, 2021 3:35 pm

The control panel shows EC328T v2.20

The Power Supply Unit = EC328
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Post by Peter Brown Fri May 14, 2021 5:31 pm

That is what it should be but it also should have the pump control. Try setting it to EC328S that is the general purpose option.
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Post by Peter Brown Fri May 14, 2021 5:32 pm

Maybe before that, reset by unplugging the multiway connector from the control panel and then reconnecting. Be careful not to damage the connector.
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Post by Johnuready Fri May 14, 2021 5:41 pm

I have unplugged it when I changed out the Charger Controller. 

How do I set the control panel from EC328T to EC328S?
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Post by PLOUGHLIN Fri May 14, 2021 6:06 pm

Johnuready wrote:I have unplugged it when I changed out the Charger Controller. 

How do I set the control panel from EC328T to EC328S?

Try holding the up and down buttons together until a beep is heard, that gets into the hidden menu, the change may be there.?

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Post by Peter Brown Fri May 14, 2021 7:57 pm

Yes it's in the menu Peter l mentions.  My van is 2011 and came with an EC325.  When I replaced it with an EC328 Sargent told me to set the controller to EC328T that was customised for AS but several functions did not work. When I tried EC328S everything works fine. I guess its possible you also have a replacement EC328.
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Post by Molly3 Fri May 14, 2021 9:53 pm

I have had to clean the the small inline filter  a couple of times  to prevent slow filling ,
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