Habitation door failing to lock with key fob

On mine, the trim had already been taken off for this job which might, to the innocent, seem to be a regular part of a 5,000 mile service . The rubber pulls away from its slotted in fixing but the straw coloured plastic is held in by 283 staples which you have to ping out with a small tool. You do not need to disassemble any of the window to get the inner skin off.
Getting the pull-shut handle apart is probably going to be the difficult bit. You can unscrew the big Phillips screw easily but there is another one hidden inside the hollow of the handle at the lower end. As mine had already been taken apart I was able to gently prise the two halves apart. You will see a join between the door-side half and the hab-side half. Exert a gentle but firm force on the hab side half, forcing it away from the door half. Hopefully it will separate, but it depends what glue has been used. If you just lever it away keeping a constant strain on it, hopefully it will come apart. If it does, you will see the other screw which is easy to undo. Then of course pull the straw coloured panel away and the whole glory of the operating mechanism is there in front of you. Operate the locks by pulling the cables and you will see how it works. On mine, one of the complex shaped springs was broken and I suspect that may be a common fault. I got replacement springs from AutoSleeper. I think they were about £12 each which is not bad for a spring that must cost over one penny to make - but less than two pence. But at least you can get them. Send A/S and email with your build number (inside or near the glove box) and they will identify the correct spring, and you can order it from them.
I didn't bother with re-stapling the inner skin when I rebuilt it. I used double sided foam tape and just stuck it in place. At the same time of course you will rotate the pull handle through 180 degrees so you can open the cutlery draw. I 'glued' my hab side half of the handle back using non-setting butyl rubber sealant, as used to seal panels on motorhomes. Very cheap, about £3.50 for a cartridge. As it is non setting I can just pull it apart when the job needs doing again.
I notice that A/S, instead of ordering doors with handles rotated like this, just give you a pull-open flap now.
Some photos so you know what to expect:
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A really useful video.  He described a 'white stud' which the solenoid hooks onto.  The white stud had broken on mine.  The Lippert tech removed all the staples and didn't refit them.  He didn't use a hair drier.  The only glue holding the inner skin to the door was double-sided foam sticky tape that he prised apart with a Stanley knife.  He didn't attempt to remove the inner handle intact.  Instead he took a drill to it to expose one of the screws which he then undid.  I know gassygassy got his off intact but that may be because it had been removed before.  Mine seemed to be stuck in with hard glue.  I see gassygassy removed the whole inner skin and rubber seal.  As in the video, the Lippert tech only removed enough of the rubber seal to gain access to the internal mechanism.  The bottom of the seal is glued at the mid-point of the door.  He left this intact.  He stuck a new cover on the internal handle with white silicon sealant so I may be able to get mine off without damaging it as gassygassy did.  I can't say I'm looking forward to doing this job.

Yes, my rubber seal was also stuck to the door frame at the bottom in the centre. You don't need to tear this off the frame.