Wardrobe Light

Hi, the wardrobe light in our 2017 Bourton has stopped working. Like most others it normally operates automatically when the door is opened but I can’t find a ‘switch’ anywhere - it seems to operate by the door pushing it away from the inside frame when it closes.

However, it’s more likely to be the bulb itself but I am not sure what type it is or where to get a replacement. It is a glass filament with two metal prongs that simply push fit into the light fitting. Anyone know what this may be and where to obtain them?

David

There should be a little plastic switch that is pushed in when the door is closed to switch the light off. 

Ours does the same thing but if I jiggle the switch a bit the light comes on and will work properly for a while until it stops again. I keep thinking of doing something about it but have not bothered so far.

One of htese perhaps?  [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Whilst you are buying a bulb, save lots of Solar Power and wasted heat, buy an LED replacement bulb a 1Watt will flood the Wardrobe with light, ToolStation do them.

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When I bought the Nuevo the light was on full time when the EC700 was on. the fitment got very hot and consumed nearly 1 Amp Hour, another thing they missed at PDI. I couldn't easily adjust the fitment so I fixed an adhesive rubber foot to the Wardrobe door as an actuator.

Thanks everyone will get one of the LED bulbs from toolstation and give it a try.

David

The switch failed on ours so I replaced the whole light with an LED version of the original, the LED version gives about 3 times the light of the original, a worthwhile upgrade

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spanner wrote:The switch failed on ours so I replaced the whole light with an LED version of the original, the LED version gives about 3 times the light of the original, a worthwhile upgrade

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Just received the LED bulb from Toolstation that Marconi posted a link to (£7 delivery for a tiny bulb!) fitted it and........it’s pathetic. In the dark I can just about make out the rail. So, have sent for the replacement LED fitting - free delivery.

David

I used a Philips LED G4 from Screwfix (link below), rated at 105 lumen so a bit brighter than the version from Toolstation.  It’s fine and casts enough light for the wardrobe.

Tim

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A battery  operated  led motion sensor  light  could be an option  ,plus  it won't drain the battery if the  door is not properly  closed  .mine has gone  but it is at  the bottom of the to do .list ,   A bit off topic  I have  one  in the  lounge  that comes  on when I have a night  visit  and one in the  toilet that comes on when the  door is opened. .

It may have been you, Molly3, or Quilter, who recommended on the Forum a magnetic-strip LED rechargeable light with motion sensor - my wife and I are most grateful: we bought a couple, and they are perfect for a kitchen corner under-worksurface cupboard. Open the door; light comes on; easy to see what you need on the whirligig basket shelves; close door and light goes off after a few seconds. Lasts a few months between recharges. So Thanks!

Cymro

Given enough Voltage from the Leisure Battery, I wonder if David got a dud LED Lamp.

I searched hard for an LED replacement and found my first one in Spain. The shop only had a 4 Watt 400lm version which is physically quite a bit bigger than the Halogen bulb it replaces, however it still fits nicely and of course runs cool. For me it was far too bright but it still only consumes around a third of the Halogen Current, I purchased it knowing that I had a good use for it at home in a Reading Lamp. Plus I knew that back home ToolStation and Screwfix stock them and they can be had over the counter.

Anyone wanting Operating Theatre brightness or something in between has a nice Power / Lumens range to choose from.

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Hi Marconi - think I got the wrong one it is only 80lm but I hadn’t realised. Got the replacement fitting coming which looks like it uses a round fitting with eight or so LEDs. We are living in the van on hook up with lithium battery system so no voltage issues there. 

David

LEDs can be very temperamental. I've had problems when replacing halogens on both 12V and 240V. Flashing can be a frequent issue. I've had that on an outside PIR operated light which flashed continually at about once a second, on mains candle bulbs fitted to a conservatory fan plus lights fitting which will sometimes come on fully immediately but will more often flash for several minutes before settling and on a 12V MR16 that flickers very rapidly for a few minutes before settling. The most bizarre is a 118mm dimmable 25W (?) R7s fitted in place of a 300W halogen. It is switched on by a click on/off rotary switch which then rotates to full brightness. When off the LED glows gently and then, as the switch is turned on and rotated it passes through 3 distinct and abrupt levels of brightness.

LEDs don’t dim particularly well, certainly not when compared to a halogen lamp. Unless the dimmer is designed for LED (and vice versa) there’s likely to be flickering, flat spots and unreliable performance overall. Even then there’s a degree of luck involved. LEDs designed for retrofitting into 230V lamp holders are notoriously bad at being dimmed, mainly because they’re often too small to incorporate the electronics needed for dimmer compatibility. The LED market has also been flooded with a lot of poor quality product from China, which compounds the problem.

I’ve learned from experience when replacing filament lamps with LEDs to use well-established manufacturers such as Philips and Osram. Check that the product can be dimmed, and select a dimmer that’s LED compatible, again from a reputable supplier.  Success is not 100% guaranteed, but stands the best chance. In spite all of that effort don’t set your expectations too high, because the quality of light from a dimmed LED is nowhere near as good as from a dimmed halogen. Even the warmest LEDs go grey as they dim and they won’t dim to as low a light level as a halogen will.

Tim

I had a strange experience with a LED 32w garden floodlight, with night sensor. It wasn't cheap, but it did what it said on the tin. At first.

Returning from a weekend away, about a month after installing it high up on the garage wall, a neighbour politely told me that there was something wrong with the lamp: it switched on and off every other second, and was driving him crazy!

All set to dismantle, I found the cause. The wisteria had grown, such that one leaf was by now in front of the light sensor. After dusk, the sensor decided that (in the shade of the leaf) it was night, and turned on the LED. Whereupon the brightness reflected from the leaf made the sensor decide that it was daytime and so it turned off the light. Then, of course, the sensor decided that (in the shade of the leaf) it was night, and turned on the LED........ and so on.

I now trim the wisteria as necessary!

Cymro

Had same with a wildlife cam. Set it up with lots of hope after first night 1000 images!!!!!
All of a tree branch moving, thought it was an IR sensor, it was motion detector!!

Kemerton-bath wrote:LEDs don’t dim particularly well, certainly not when compared to a halogen lamp. Unless the dimmer is designed for LED (and vice versa) there’s likely to be flickering, flat spots and unreliable performance overall. Even then there’s a degree of luck involved. LEDs designed for retrofitting into 230V lamp holders are notoriously bad at being dimmed, mainly because they’re often too small to incorporate the electronics needed for dimmer compatibility. The LED market has also been flooded with a lot of poor quality product from China, which compounds the problem.

I’ve learned from experience when replacing filament lamps with LEDs to use well-established manufacturers such as Philips and Osram. Check that the product can be dimmed, and select a dimmer that’s LED compatible, again from a reputable supplier.  Success is not 100% guaranteed, but stands the best chance. In spite all of that effort don’t set your expectations too high, because the quality of light from a dimmed LED is nowhere near as good as from a dimmed halogen. Even the warmest LEDs go grey as they dim and they won’t dim to as low a light level as a halogen will.

Tim

Oddly enough I don't need the dimming on the R7S. It is handy with a halogen as it reduces heat output. It's the gentle glow when off that grates - I guess that it's a slight current leak in the potentiometer that would have been burning juice 24/7 since I bought the lamp standard 15 years ago and was never visible with a Halogen R7S.!

PLOUGHLIN wrote:One of htese perhaps?  [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

These Halogen lamps can get very hot, possibly hot enough to melt the cover... if it hasn't fallen off!

I've used a multi-LED for a couple of years without issue... apart from the cover falling off..... 

lol Have now fitted the LED version of the wardrobe light recommended by spanner above. Brilliant, can see right to the back/bottom of the cupboard.

David