Truma Water Heater Problem

It’s the in take for the fan for combustion air flow at the top and the bottom is for the air circulation

I see what you mean. The combustion air goes in through the corrugated black tube from the terminal. It then goes to the input side of that motor which is the other side to the little fan just inside that grille. That motor has a small fan operating in the general habitation area, all that fan does is to cool the motor. At the other end of the armature axle there will be another fan which is mixing the combustion air and the gas, before it goes to the burner. That's how domestic gas boilers work as well.

gassygassy wrote:Yes it has drifted a bit. Must be all the hot air around here!
I have finished the rotation, it works fine. It does involve the purchase of a few parts namely

One tin of Morrisons Garden Peas
One metre of orange 2.5 T&E cable (you can't suddenly ask orange electrons to run along a grey wire can you?
One metre of red/clear water pipe (I went all anti-establishment and used some blue/clear pipe, I hope the hot water can cope with it   )
One 8mm compression coupler for the gas pipe

That's about it really. Naturally as with any job you end up with a small saucer of unknown, apparently not necessary screws and a couple of unwanted and unnecessary warm air pipe clips.
I'll start a new thread in case anyone feels inclined to waste a couple of days doing it. I guess we have all run out of jobs we meant to do sometime, which have now got done.

Well done.  As no one else has asked, what was the tin of Morrisons Garden Pease for?

Hi Babian, Problem not solved yet it gets more confusing, first I contacted an engineer who said he could fix it but couldn't book it in until Sept 17th but suggested that I try someone else,  I telephone a Caravan dealer who said yes I can do it, bring it in today fixed by tomorrow its the PCB that wants replacing that will be £200 plus labour plus £50 to diagnose, when I asked why £50 when he had already told me what was wrong he said he had to make sure. rang first engineer who said I can do Habitation on 17th but it will be later in year to fix boiler. Tried No 3 and he booked me in on 17th July so hoping it will get fixed. Why did I sell  my 2010 AS M/H especially as wife does not like Bourton!!
LucyC

In conversation with a mobile engineer about these Truma problems he said it's always the PCB. Be interesting to know the final outcome.

Paulmold wrote:In conversation with a mobile engineer about these Truma problems he said it's always the PCB. Be interesting to know the final outcome.

The frustrating thing about that is that, if true, it's almost certainly just one component on the PCB that has failed and, if so, it would probably only cost pennies to replace...

I will post the final outcome when completed, Thank you all for comments and help, didn't realise it would cause so much interest. 
LucyC (Peter)

Getting back to the initial question I now recall that I had that problem once. I can suggest this, that Lucy / Peter can do fairly easily. Inside the wardrobe is the back of the push pull twist turn push select control unit thingy whatever they call it. The square brown box that displays the fault. Having read the problem "no connection between control panel and heating system' the logical conclusion is that the wire joining them is broken or somehow disconnected. If it is telling the truth that is. I removed the long grey panel in the wardrobe behind the control panel, and pulled off the small plug that has the wire going to the boiler. I pushed it back on, turned on the controls and it worked. It worked for me. Try it, it costs nothing.
That will be £50 for the diagnosis, and £200 for a new PCB. Sir. Plus Vat, that makes it a nice round £300 and your boiler now works fine. That's a lot cheaper than a new boiler, isn't it, Sir?
If it isn't that it might just be the boiler end of the cable, or indeed the cable itself. Trouble is you need to find a 4 year old contortionist to get at the other end of the cable, or remove the boiler. I think it is just a 2 wire very small cable, figure of 8, one black and the other black/white. If unplugging / reconnecting at the controller end doesn't fix it you could, assuming you can get at it, remove the inspection cover on the boiler and unplug / reconnect the plug there.
Try it. If it works I am a genius. If it doesn't, I didn't tell you to do it.

Further to my original post, both fuses on heater checked and ok, mains power to all sockets working, no mains power to water heater, suggests faulty consumer unit, see what tomorrow brings.
PeterC

Finally got it fixed, after finding that fuses were fine Sargent recommended the the MCB controlling mains to boiler could be faulty and advised replacing the MCB but if this didn't work it could be the PCB, Sargent 5 to 10 day turn round for repair, contacted local computer repairer, delivered, repaired and fitted in two days. It turned out to be a dry solder joint. back on the road and found a local caravan/motorhome services just 4 miles from home. I would like to advertise this services if this is allowed.
LucyC (Peter)

Lucyc1937 wrote:..........Sargent 5 to 10 day turn round for repair,.......
LucyC (Peter)

I very recently needed my 328 / control panel repairing, and Sargent currently say MINIMUM five weeks. So I sent them both to a specialist caravan electronics repair company and it was diagnosed (faulty, unrepairable control panel) with new panel and tested together with the 328 and returned to me in 10 days.
The price of the control panel depends on the day of the week, apparently. The specialist repair co was the cheapest, cheaper than Sargent, then Sargent and A/S want £100 more than the repair company. For the same exact item.