Nuevo shower tray

Hi there all. I have just joined this forum after having purchased my 2009 Nuevo about three years ago. I've up till now been very pleased with it but suddenly this week have encountered two problems, both involving water leaks. I noticed the first whilst filling the fresh water tank and noticed water dripping down from underneath! On investigation it appears to be coming from the top of the tank where the corrugated hose enters the tank alongside the battery under the drivers side couch. 
 Looking like I will have to drop the tank to get at the problem. I will need to free the filling hose up to drop the tank. Anyone out there had this issue. Also found a leak under the shower tray but thats another issue, one thing at a time. Hmm.

Are you sure it's leaking and not just overflowing. The overflows are simply holes on the top of the tank.

Colin h, that's how it works as Paul says, overflow from tank.
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Richard

Shower tray could it be the drain fitting leaking  through seal failure  ?.

Well I just tried to post a reply and lost the lot somewhere! Lets have another go. Thanks everyone for your replies and interest. I'm pretty certain its nothing to do with breather holes as it happens as soon as I start to fill with water. Looking up from underneath I can see where the water has soaked into the ply floor. I have been working on it this afternoon and looking at my options. Was hoping to drop the tank but the seized nuts on the studs made me think otherwise, also with the lack of ground clearance would prevent the tank from dropping low enough. Anyway plan b is now attacking from the top. I have removed the metal bed frame also the leisure battery and tray. Needed to do this as the flange for the water inlet hose was half under the bed frame(great design!) I have cut back and removed a section of the floor vinyl to expose the ply floor. Now intending to cut out a square (aprox) in the shape of an inverted truncated pyramid so ghat I can glue back in. This hopefully will give me access to the hoses and their fittings. Watch this space. More on the shower tray problem as well as think I've located the problem. Colin

I would seriously try and drop the tank to work on it. Keep soaking the bolts with WD40 for a few days might help loosen the nuts.

To cut any floor away be very cautious, and only cut away as much floor as needed bit by bit adjacent to the black hose going through the floor until you can just squeeze an angled screwdriver on to the jubilee clip holding the hose (it won't be easy). Inside the floor are timber bearers that run across the floor width wise also some running longways at specific points for strength and mounting of things inside and underneath don't cut through any!!!

Hi Callum. Thanks for your concern and rightly so. I have now almost completed the task and yes it was a split in the black inlet hose. I cut away just the top layer of ply aprox 4x4 inches. This gave me enough room to be able to undo the jubilee clips. The holes under the top ply layer were larger yhrough the thicker ply. I think the problem was the hole in the top ply wasnt large enough and had cut through the hose. I would post some pictures but cant work out how? Now need to sort the shower tray issue out which I'm fairly certain I know the cause of.

You'll find instructions on how to post photos in the "factsheets" section (home page)

Hopefully I've posted a couple of pictures of the split pipe and the hole in the floor.

Think I've fixed the leaking shower issue. Having removed the corner moulding that holds the shower head and tap( the red and blue pipes are a push fit into the connector) it revealed that the shower tray hadnt been siliconed behind the moulding in the back corner. This shouldnt normally be a problem unless the moulding to shower wall seal had been breached which in my shower it had. Also the seal had broken down behind the swinging wall. The photos should make it clearer. All appears to be ok now. [You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]

Well done Colin for your determination and willingness to take things apart and "give it a go".

Thank you for your congratulatory comment gassy, unfortunately it might be premature as when I went out this morning to check under the van I found some damp underneath the floor again in the same  back corner! I can't see how it could be coming from inside the shower unit given all that I've done and am now investigating outside the van. There was a heavy dew this morning and I have a suspicion it may be getting in between the outside panels. There were a couple of suspect areas that I have now sealed so will have to see. I can see the benefit of the older Autosleepers that had a one piece fibreglass moulding, like an upside down boat I imagine and very unlikely to develop any external leaks. Going away this weekend in it so will give the shower a good test. At least I've fixed the water tank issue

I wonder if its 'old' water that had previously leaked, pooled somewhere  & is still finding its way down.
Maybe a short run will allow it to get 'shaken-out'.

modelman wrote:I wonder if its 'old' water that had previously leaked, pooled somewhere  & is still finding its way down.
Maybe a short run will allow it to get 'shaken-out'.

That thought also occurred to me.
I do know there is a 6" gap between the outer rear skin and the inner vertical skin, but that is only the rear panel, and in any case if water got into that void it would just drop out of the bottom, it isn't joined to the floor there. Also of course it is a long way from the water tank area. Bit of a puzzle there, needs investigating.

Your new van looks a bit small in your avatar, Gassy. And possibly some tlc needed?

Well I'm trying to trace the source of the damp, before I trade it in for a new Stanton. A bit of T Cut will sort the paintwork. It's only 45 years old so I should get a good part ex valuation. It'll be a bit of a jump up from a Boot Jump awning on the back to a proper gin palace though.

I overtook that 504 going along the road in Lagos, Nigeria when I worked there. 504s are brilliant and very popular there. The roads are a bit rough though. On a 504 saloon after a few years the floor pan cracks from one rear wheel arch to the other wheel arch, then the crack works its way up to the rear screen. The car goes into a sort of horse-shoe U shape as it progressively collapses. Eventually the prop shaft grinds along the ground and the car won't go any further. At that point it needs fixing: before that, "It is going" and therefore nothing needs to be done. Then, everyone gets out, they turn the car on its side, a welder comes down the street (you are never more than 50 yards from a welder - who incidentally doesn't wear a mask and so is blind by the age of 23) and you stretch the car back roughly into shape and weld a few spots along the line of the crack. Back on its wheels everyone gets in and off you go. Fixed.

Once my driver and I were walking along a pavement and we overtook a lorry that was firing on one cylinder. BANG thud thud thud thud thud BANG it went, just. I said to my driver "why doesn't he fix it?" My driver looked at me with a 'What a stupid question' frown on his face. "It is going". End of subject. Why work on something that is going?

Ha! Reminds me of my time in Kano. I was warned never, ever, wear a seatbelt, because if there was a collision the police would know from the fact that you had worn a seatbelt that you knew yourself to be a poor driver. So the accident must have been your fault.

Then again, when the roundabout ahead was blocked with traffic, it was perfectly acceptable to go around the other way. And if that was also blocked, then drive over the top.

Happy days!

Cymro

PS When we once conked out on a remote road (not so remote that a crowd gathered around very quickly) I was regarded as a miracle worker by getting the car to go again with just a rubber band. One of the clips holding down the distributor cap had dropped off. Managed to get back to Kano, having impressed my driver and my wife!