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Habitation lights

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Post by Briskbay25 Mon Mar 22, 2021 6:36 pm

marconi wrote:
seangaughan wrote: is it possible that this could be stuck in the OFF position regardless of whether the van Ignition is on or off? 

Yes, in fact the relay contacts may be burnt out, not an unusual occurrence.
Everyone! Thanks... very helpful. I have stuff to try.  allthumbz
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Post by Paulmold Mon Mar 22, 2021 6:36 pm

A photo of the panels etc would certainly  help this thread...

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Post by marconi Mon Mar 22, 2021 7:02 pm

Paulmold wrote:A photo of the panels etc would certainly  help this thread...

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Sounds very much like this set up. The picture is too blurred to read the labels.

Someone said the switches are trips. Either could go wrong, how easy is it for Briskbay25 to access the rear and measure some volts.

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Post by Briskbay25 Tue Mar 23, 2021 9:00 am

marconi wrote:
Paulmold wrote:A photo of the panels etc would certainly  help this thread...

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Sounds very much like this set up. The picture is too blurred to read the labels.

Someone said the switches are trips. Either could go wrong, how easy is it for Briskbay25 to access the rear and measure some volts.

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Good question.this is identical to mine - and of course now looking at it - it could well be the switch here.I think that the fact that EVERYTHING else is working on both 12v and EHU suggests something like this -  I need to get in behind the panel somehow and check the light switch itself????
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Post by HairyFool Tue Mar 23, 2021 9:18 am

The two buttons one either side cover the screws that hold each square in the frame.

Ease them out with a pointed tool, undo the screws and ease it out. Watch behind as you do to see if any leads fall off.
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Post by marconi Tue Mar 23, 2021 9:43 am

Briskbay25 wrote:

Good question.this is identical to mine - and of course now looking at it - it could well be the switch here.I think that the fact that EVERYTHING else is working on both 12v and EHU suggests something like this -  I need to get in behind the panel somehow and check the light switch itself????

Cool, that was a good guess then. Do you have labels on the switches, anyway, write down the function of the ones you know that will eliminate some. 

With the switches you are not sure of, try them and try to establish what they do, write those down.  Pay particular attention to the feel of the switch as you click it on and off, and whether the clear rocker is square, they often depend on the translucent red plastic as the pivot and the plastic decays with age, when both sides go the rocker will fall apart.

Another good pointer, do the switches actually illuminate when switched On. 

You are lucky in a way, now we know the panel, as Hairy fool says, each facia is dead easy to remove, just like 13A home mains sockets and light switches although you don't normally get a plastic blanking plug with those.

Disconnect the mains for safety before you remove the panels, measure for 12 Volts carefully, we expect several linked Positive feeds on the terminals at one end of the switches and nothing on the other terminal on each until switched On.

Next problem if you do find a faulty switch, the mounting hole rectangle size has changed, they make everything a little smaller and slimmer. I have overcome that one with a little difficulty.


Last edited by marconi on Tue Mar 23, 2021 10:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post by rogerblack Tue Mar 23, 2021 10:04 am

My Pollensa is similar apart from the relative positions and a Truma UltraHeat 240V panel as well as the gas Ultrastore one but no TV power/aerial socket (which is on the opposite side of the van).

On mine, there is a large plastic cover inside the wardrobe which can be removed for access to the rear of all of those four panels at once, by removing four (?) screws. It is a bit like a plate of spaghetti in there . . .

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Post by marconi Tue Mar 23, 2021 10:18 am

rogerblack wrote:My Pollensa is similar apart from the relative positions and a Truma UltraHeat 240V panel as well as the gas Ultrastore one but no TV power/aerial socket (which is on the opposite side of the van).

On mine, there is a large plastic cover inside the wardrobe which can be removed for access to the rear of all of those four panels at once, by removing four (?) screws. It is a bit like a plate of spaghetti in there . . .

That's interesting, so there is a choice for access. Maybe less daunting to avoid the spaghetti and just remove the facia plate with the switches, if the wires are long enough, also not so much neck cranking to see it ?

Does one of the six switches operate the Habitation Lights on yours ?
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Post by rogerblack Tue Mar 23, 2021 10:55 am

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marconi wrote:
rogerblack wrote:My Pollensa is similar apart from the relative positions and a Truma UltraHeat 240V panel as well as the gas Ultrastore one but no TV power/aerial socket (which is on the opposite side of the van).

On mine, there is a large plastic cover inside the wardrobe which can be removed for access to the rear of all of those four panels at once, by removing four (?) screws. It is a bit like a plate of spaghetti in there . . .

That's interesting, so there is a choice for access. Maybe less daunting to avoid the spaghetti and just remove the facia plate with the switches, if the wires are long enough, also not so much neck cranking to see it ?

Does one of the six switches operate the Habitation Lights on yours ?

Yes - top row, first switch on left, labelled "LIGHTING" underneath it. In pics, it is switched ON.

Going in from the front risks pulling out wires or even breaking if they've gone brittle - I'd go for the rear spaghetti approach - it's not really that bad!  I can't remember if there are any fuses in there, it's years since I had it off 
(oooerr missus!) hugegrins

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Post by spanner Tue Mar 23, 2021 1:43 pm

I wouldn’t initially be using a multimeter to check this fault, a multimeter can read 12 volts at a connection even with a very poor supply (not enough oomph) can be very misleading, a 12 volt circuit tester or a 5 watt bulb in a bulb holder and a couple of wires will prove if there is a proper supply.
As all the other 12 volt stuff is working try a new fuse in the fuse lighting holder, next step using a 12 volt circuit tester check if the tester lights up at the fuse holder, if you have power at the fuse next do the same check at the light switch, I hope this helps you

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Post by Briskbay25 Tue Mar 23, 2021 3:27 pm

Ok so I can get in at the back of the panel - no problem. So now I need to see if I can work out whether it’s the switch at fault. 
I know which one it is - top left, marked, as said before. None of those lights have ever lit up since I got the van. The switch still sounds good - clicks as if it works - now to test - I’ll need to work out how - I have a multimeter but not a light tester.
Also need to see if I can find any fuses in there?
Sorry Marconi - I don’t understand what you wrote: 
we expect several linked Positive feeds on the terminals at one end of the switches and nothing on the other terminal on each until switched On.’
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Post by marconi Tue Mar 23, 2021 4:02 pm

Briskbay25 wrote:Ok so I can get in at the back of the panel - no problem. So now I need to see if I can work out whether it’s the switch at fault. 
I know which one it is - top left, marked, as said before. None of those lights have ever lit up since I got the van. The switch still sounds good - clicks as if it works - now to test - I’ll need to work out how - I have a multimeter but not a light tester.
Also need to see if I can find any fuses in there?
Sorry Marconi - I don’t understand what you wrote: 
we expect several linked Positive feeds on the terminals at one end of the switches and nothing on the other terminal on each until switched On.’

A test bulb with one lead clipped to earth is often used in the motor trade, and could be useful in this situation, thanks Spanner. It's so often a meter that someone has to hand these days.

Below are six switches with indicator LED's all the Positive feeds are looped, AS may not have done it like this or maybe some are looped some not, but it could be a guide for you. These are what I meant with 'linked Positive feeds.'

You may be able to see a Negative also looped which is the Negative for the LED's, (maybe bulbs in your case).

Check that the switch for the lights has 12 Volts on one Terminal permanently and that it appears on the other terminal when switched On.

There may (should) be a Fuse somewhere in the light switch Positive no one seems to know where.


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Post by rogerblack Tue Mar 23, 2021 4:12 pm

In case it helps. here is the wiring diagram for the Pollensa, Pescara & Ravenna of that era (2001/2002)- may be similar?

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Post by spanner Tue Mar 23, 2021 7:12 pm

I really hope it’s just a faulty switch however the link below may be of interest

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Post by Briskbay25 Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:30 am

Thanks to all for your help. Last time I posted I think we had got to the likelihood that it was something to do with the switch. So having got in to the back of the main panel, I found that there was a little connection that had come loose - it will need to be soldered, but in the meantime- I have hooked the lights up to one of those weird unused switches and we’re off and running. Really appreciate all the help! I will post a pic later on of the connection in case it helps anyone in future.
 up!
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Post by marconi Thu Apr 22, 2021 10:13 am

Good, thanks for the update.

Any information and pictures will be helpful to other owners, as we have found there is not a lot of info on your set up.
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Post by Briskbay25 Thu Apr 22, 2021 6:24 pm

[You must be registered and logged in to see this link.]Here is the problem - it just needs to be soldered. But I have hooked the light up to an unused switch for now. Thanks for all help.
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Post by marconi Thu Apr 22, 2021 7:51 pm

That's interesting. They have soldered the Positive feed wire and soldered links to the other switches, I suppose it saved them 3 push connectors and a bit of work. What ever are connected to the other two switches on the right looking from the front will not work either without your red wire soldered on.

That is a horrible bit of dry looking soldering which looks to have corroded somewhat. Get a TV / Radio repair man to solder those connections using some of his solder with decent electrical flux.

Do you have a local TV / Radio shop, a nice cream bun and a bit of charm should get that job done for nothing. If you can park nearby and present it ready for soldering, like in the photo, who could refuse. He may well have a portable gas soldering iron these days otherwise you may need to be near his door for a mains extension to be run out for a 240 Volt Soldering Iron.  smile!
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