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Solar Panel Charging Rate Utilising Sargent

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Post by Wearsider Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:54 pm

I have recently fitted a high quality 100W Solar Panel (Cleversolar CS-100) to my 2010 Marquis Lancashire (Auto-Sleeper Nuevo) utilising the already fitted Sargent EC328 Power Control System which is configured to automatically charge both the leisure and vehicle batteries simultaneously. From others experience I would be interested to know what range of sunshine dependent "amp charge" readings I should expect be shown on the Sargent display when the 12 volt system is turned off. Furthermore should I expect the rate of charge to reduce as the batteries become more fully charged.
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Post by Peter Brown Thu Apr 25, 2013 6:13 pm

First check if the current meter needs to be calibrated as it does on the EC325 - if it does its an easy process described in the handbook.

The current indication is negative if the sum of currents is a discharge and positive if the batteries are being charged. So with everything switched off it should read 0 in the dark.

The current level is determined by a combination of battery condition and available light. In a situation of constant light and system off, the current will reduce as the batteries are charged. When the voltage indicates around 13.2 to 13.5v you will not see any charge current.

I have an 80w panel and the maximum I have seen that deliver is 6 amps, you should see a little more.

The panels can still be very effective without direct sunshine but low cloud and any other cause of 'gloomy' light reduces output.

If this is not clear, please say.

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Post by Wearsider Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:01 pm

Thank you for your advice Peter. I will recalibrate and do some experimenting and see what amp readings result.

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Post by moggyminor1966 Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:21 pm

Wearsider wrote:I have recently fitted a high quality 100W Solar Panel (Cleversolar CS-100) to my 2010 Marquis Lancashire (Auto-Sleeper Nuevo) utilising the already fitted Sargent EC328 Power Control System which is configured to automatically charge both the leisure and vehicle batteries simultaneously. From others experience I would be interested to know what range of sunshine dependent "amp charge" readings I should expect be shown on the Sargent display when the 12 volt system is turned off. Furthermore should I expect the rate of charge to reduce as the batteries become more fully charged.

Hi wearsider I am very interested in the solar panel you have fitted and wonder if you are able to post a photo of it on the roof. I have a 2011 Nuevo EK which has a factory fitted 30W panel which I would like to replace with a 100W panel. I was considering the Bosch panel from Photonics Universe at £189.99 but this weighs 9.3kg and measures 1070mm X 670mm X 30mm whereas the Cleversolar CS 100 weighs 7.4kg and measures 1038mm X 527mm X 46mm. Whilst more expensive at £299.95 it is lighter and smaller so would seem a better bet.

Did you get it direct from Cleversolar? Also what type of mounting fixtures did you use for the panel and did you manage to fit it onto the raised section of the roof immediately behind the large Heki rooflight?

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Post by Wearsider Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:07 pm

Hi Moggyminor 1966.

I opted for the Cleversolar panel because of its high performance relative to its size and weight and having bought it direct from them used a local firm to fit it.

At present I do not have a photograph of the finished job but viewed from the rear of the van it is mounted longside front to back just in front of the shower room rooflight and a few inches to the left of the right hand raised roof lip.

It is mounted using four substantial aluminium fixings which raise it about 3 to 4 inches from the roof level so as not to foul the raised area behind the factory fitted air conditioning unit. Sikaflex primer and bonding sealant were used to avoid drilling any holes in the roof other than one for cable entry using a gland.

The only slight downside is that depending on how my van is parked when the sun is low in the sky the right hand raised lip may cast a shadow on part of the solar panel.

Michael
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Post by moggyminor1966 Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:14 pm

Thanks for reply Michael and hope you can manage a photo when you get chance. smile!
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Post by Wearsider Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:28 pm

I will try to arrange to post sometime soon a photo of my van roof with solar panel in situ.
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Post by Johno Fri Apr 26, 2013 4:31 pm

Hi Moggyminor

I fitted a cleversolar 100 watt solar panel last year and to date have been very pleased with the results. content

I purchased it as a kit direct from Cleversolar to save the bother of hunting around for brackets, adhesives, cable etc. The kit had everything needed for the complete installation including the Fox 320 dual battery regulator, I also purchased the Fox MD1 display which as well as providing all the usual info' about charging volts and amps also enables you to select the charging regime between leisure and vehicle batteries and also battery type.

The kit is not cheap but I guess you only get what you pay for and most of the components seem to be of German origin so naturally are good quality and well made.

The installation is fairly straight forward the worst part is plucking up the courage to drill the roof for the cable entry checking and double checking my measurements brought to mind the old adage quoted to me on many an occaision when I was an apprentice sparkie " measure twice cut once" winks

Even on dull, rainy, overcast days like today the panel is still putting out around 13.2 - 13.4 volts.

Cheers John up!



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Post by roli Fri Apr 26, 2013 4:47 pm

I wouldnt rely on what you see indicated by the Sargent Panel. Better to get a multimeter on the system.
We go through a independant regulator and when checking out the accuracy of the Sargent panel following their instructions found the panel out of calibration by upto to 2 volts depening on battery voltage. On inspection I found some non soldered joints and some dry on the pcb. I am not brilliant on surface mount components so it went to a mate who works for a large electronics company who got sorted. It came back with a consistant 0.7v error which is about the best you expect from this equipment.
The Steca unit is in line with calibrated test equipmet so I just ignore any voltage or water level readings on the Sargent unit now.
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Post by Peter Brown Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:19 pm

Hi Roger

I guess you must be unlucky with your Sargent.

I'm on my third and they've all been perfectly adequate for assessing the status of the systems they monitor, the current one is also pretty accurate on voltage when the system is switched off.

Of course I have the multimeter in the van for fault finding - but who doesn't?

Peter
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Post by moggyminor1966 Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:34 pm


smile!


Last edited by moggyminor1966 on Sun Apr 28, 2013 3:43 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Post by moggyminor1966 Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:36 pm

[quote="moggyminor1966"]
Johno wrote:Hi Moggyminor

I fitted a cleversolar 100 watt solar panel last year and to date have been very pleased with the results. content

I purchased it as a kit direct from Cleversolar to save the bother of hunting around for brackets, adhesives, cable etc. The kit had everything needed for the complete installation including the Fox 320 dual battery regulator, I also purchased the Fox MD1 display which as well as providing all the usual info' about charging volts and amps also enables you to select the charging regime between leisure and vehicle batteries and also battery type.

The kit is not cheap but I guess you only get what you pay for and most of the components seem to be of German origin so naturally are good quality and well made.

The installation is fairly straight forward the worst part is plucking up the courage to drill the roof for the cable entry checking and double checking my measurements brought to mind the old adage quoted to me on many an occaision when I was an apprentice sparkie " measure twice cut once" winks

Even on dull, rainy, overcast days like today the panel is still putting out around 13.2 - 13.4 volts.

Cheers John up!

[/quote

Hi John
Do you have the Sargent EC328 charger in your model? If so do you know how to remove the cover as I can access the 2 torx head screws at the top but the other 2 are underneath towards the rear of the unit and are inaccessible as the unit is just above the shelf in the wardrobe. As I already have a 30W factory fitted panel I can see the solar cable with black and red wires going into the unit towards the left which I understand from Sargent's website is terminated with a JST plug.
I may be able to leave the existing wiring in place but until I remove the existing panel am not sure what gauge wire A/S have used. I thought it would be safer anyway to unplug the lead to the Sargent unit after covering the panel.
Any help or advice would be appreciated. I am waiting for the weather to improve before I start! smile!


Last edited by moggyminor1966 on Sun Apr 28, 2013 6:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Post by Peter Brown Sun Apr 28, 2013 5:59 pm

My first choice would be to locate the existing panels downlead if possible and install a connector at an accessible location. Put a cover over the solar panel before you cut the cable!

The Sargent psu installations vary slightly from van to van. I've had two mounted in the wardrobe. I had to remove the 4 fixing screws on the side flanges so that the psu could be moved a bit - don't disconnect any of the connectors - then remove the wardrobe floor. After that the psu can be brought forward and tilted to get at the bottom screws. Having said that, you don't actually need to get inside for this job.

Whenever a Sargent EC325 or newer Sargent unit is fitted you should always connect a solar panel through it and not use an external regulator to connect direct to the leisure battery.

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Post by moggyminor1966 Sun Apr 28, 2013 7:19 pm

Peter Brown wrote:My first choice would be to locate the existing panels downlead if possible and install a connector at an accessible location. Put a cover over the solar panel before you cut the cable!

The Sargent psu installations vary slightly from van to van. I've had two mounted in the wardrobe. I had to remove the 4 fixing screws on the side flanges so that the psu could be moved a bit - don't disconnect any of the connectors - then remove the wardrobe floor. After that the psu can be brought forward and tilted to get at the bottom screws. Having said that, you don't actually need to get inside for this job.

Whenever a Sargent EC325 or newer Sargent unit is fitted you should always connect a solar panel through it and not use an external regulator to connect direct to the leisure battery.

Peter

Hi Peter thanks for your advice. My Sargent unit is the later EC328 model. The way A/S have run the wire it is not that accessible but where it comes through the roof they have just put a big blob of whatever sealant they use and there is no proper cable gland.
What I was thinking of doing is to cut the cable on the existing A/S fitted 30W panel and put a pair of MC4 connectors on then on the new panel do the same then leave the connectors under the panel. That way I can leave the existing cable in place and also fit a cable gland where it goes through the roof.
Do you think this would be OK?
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 29, 2013 6:32 am

Its definitely what I would be thinking of. As I mentioned before, do cover any solar panel when you are working on the wiring as , although unlikely, it is possible to cause some damage if you short the output wires.

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Post by Johno Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:17 pm

Hi Moggyminor

Sorry I'm late getting back to you but I've been working all weekend (you wouldn't believe I'm supposed to be retired shrugg ) and haven't been on line for a couple of days.

The panel in my van is an earlier model the EC 200 so I'm unable to comment on the EC 328 panel.

Cheers John up!
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Post by MR BUMP Wed May 08, 2013 4:37 pm

I was interested to read that someone has put a 100W panel on the Nuevo Lancashire, when I bought mine I was told that not enough room was available on the roof, and it is indeed cluttered with spoilers, aircon, windows, aerial etc, so I had to have a smaller 30W panel fitted, not ideal as the charge rate is quite low.
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Post by Robbie Wed May 08, 2013 7:28 pm

As Peter mentioned above when working at the solar panel to cover it. It is also important to cover the panel when re calibrating the control unit or do it when its dark outside so that the panel is not generating anything or your re calibration figure will not be correct.

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Post by SteveplusChris Sun May 12, 2013 10:45 pm

moggyminor1966 wrote:
Wearsider wrote:I have recently fitted a high quality 100W Solar Panel (Cleversolar CS-100) to my 2010 Marquis Lancashire (Auto-Sleeper Nuevo) utilising the already fitted Sargent EC328 Power Control System which is configured to automatically charge both the leisure and vehicle batteries simultaneously. From others experience I would be interested to know what range of sunshine dependent "amp charge" readings I should expect be shown on the Sargent display when the 12 volt system is turned off. Furthermore should I expect the rate of charge to reduce as the batteries become more fully charged.

Hi wearsider I am very interested in the solar panel you have fitted and wonder if you are able to post a photo of it on the roof. I have a 2011 Nuevo EK which has a factory fitted 30W panel which I would like to replace with a 100W panel. I was considering the Bosch panel from Photonics Universe at £189.99 but this weighs 9.3kg and measures 1070mm X 670mm X 30mm whereas the Cleversolar CS 100 weighs 7.4kg and measures 1038mm X 527mm X 46mm. Whilst more expensive at £299.95 it is lighter and smaller so would seem a better bet.

Did you get it direct from Cleversolar? Also what type of mounting fixtures did you use for the panel and did you manage to fit it onto the raised section of the roof immediately behind the large Heki rooflight?

I would be very interested in where you managed to fit a 100watt panel. My measurements only allow a 50 watt panel at best. Any further advice on the fitting would be great.
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