Tankblanket

I don't know what exact route you're taking but there appears to be plenty of lpg places without going too far off route....

I would be interested to know if anyone has successfully lagged the water pipes from the fresh water tank to the rear part of a Nuevo?

The Bargee wrote:

Caraman wrote:........  If on a metered EHU it gets very expensive.  .........

In Germany last year we stopped at various Stellplatz. Several of them had metered electricity and it was charged at 50c per Kwh. I was surprised - that is less than we pay here in the UK for the power fed to our homes. I would be quite happy to pay that at any site, and bowled over with a feather and taken to hospital with heart failure if I ever found a free overnight stop in the UK with the facilities they have in the EU.

The Bargee wrote: . . . . . Many stations down A34 etc. can be cluttered, or restricted hours etc. . . . .

Watch out for these so-called "Services" places you see off A roads. I stopped at one on the A14. They had building works going on which meant that all the pumps bar one were fenced off with the builders trucks, cement mixers and the occasional worker with a spade. This meant that the queue of cars entering the 'services' was stationary while the front runner filled and went to pay and go to the toilet and browse the newspapers and who knows what else. I noticed the parking time limit on entering which was 20 minutes. Once in, there was no way of exiting with or without petrol, chocolates or toilet within the 20 minute time limit. So I got a ticket, and no amount of dash cam footage showing the builders blocking the exit would sway them. Never again will I enter a place with a "Parking Eye" sign. The site owners of course are happy with the builders blocking the way, they get a rake off from Parking Eye. I've looked up Parking Eye web site and it encourages site owners to install their system by promising lucrative returns.

At £35.72 per night, if you stay for 7 nights it is cheaper to pay the return ferry fee to France than it is to stay in the UK on a camp site.

Caraman wrote:The external pipes to my freshwater tank less the drain pipe were lagged but I found some were not well lagged so I supplemented the lagging with this:

https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-thermawrap-spiral-pipe-wrap/p42791

There are no external freshwater pipes to the rear of my van.  The only external pipes on my van are the wastewater pipes which are not lagged.  

I haven't insulated any of the internal freshwater pipes as heat inside the van when the van is in use should prevent them from freezing and when the van is out of use, it’s drained down.

Many thanks for that Caraman.
We have had our internal pipe to both the sinks freeze overnight last February, we didn’t have the internal temp very high, maybe 11/12 degrees. Haven’t had freezing weather whilst out since, so haven’t had the chance to try higher internal temperatures.
But as these internal pipes seem to be right against the outside panels I would like to try and lag them. Does anyone know how difficult it is to take the cooker out?
Thanks stuart

Caraman wrote:

StuartB wrote:

Caraman wrote:The external pipes to my freshwater tank less the drain pipe were lagged but I found some were not well lagged so I supplemented the lagging with this:

https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-thermawrap-spiral-pipe-wrap/p42791

There are no external freshwater pipes to the rear of my van.  The only external pipes on my van are the wastewater pipes which are not lagged.  

I haven't insulated any of the internal freshwater pipes as heat inside the van when the van is in use should prevent them from freezing and when the van is out of use, it’s drained down.

Many thanks for that Caraman.
We have had our internal pipe to both the sinks freeze overnight last February, we didn’t have the internal temp very high, maybe 11/12 degrees. Haven’t had freezing weather whilst out since, so haven’t had the chance to try higher internal temperatures.
But as these internal pipes seem to be right against the outside panels I would like to try and lag them. Does anyone know how difficult it is to take the cooker out?
Thanks stuart

Gosh.  I've not heard of that before.  We set the internal temp to 14 degrees at night and whilst we are away from the van in the day and so far no internal freezing and we have been out in sub-zero conditions.  I wonder if PVCs have had this problem as their insulation is less.  If I was going to lag the internal pipes I would use something like this:

https://www.toolstation.com/water-bylaw-49-pipe-insulation/p50715

I've not tried removing the cooker but it should be straightforward.

Thanks, will have a look into removing the cooker.

Removing the cooker should be just a matter of removing four screws which hold the outside edges of the cooker frame to the woodwork. Pull the cooker out into the hab area, and there will be a long piece of gas hose. This might be flexible or it might be a curled round piece of thin copper pipe. You can disconnect this if you can't get to the water pipes to insulate them without undoing it, but when you do the gas pipe back up, turn on the gas supply and check for no leaks using specific gas leak detector fluid. You can get this from B&Q or similar, and it comes both as a small bottle of liquid with a paint brush in the cap, or an aerosol spray. Don't use washing up liquid for two reasons: one it is nowhere near as bubbly as the genuine thing, and two it has a lot of salt in it which will corrode the copper gas pipe. There will also be two wires: one for the 12v and another for the mains. You can disconnect these if you need to.

Finally a tip to stop pipes freezing inside the van is to leave all the cupboard doors open so that the inside warmth can get to the pipes.