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Shower problem

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Post by Madmac Mon Mar 01, 2021 6:33 am

The shower in our 2015 Beckford is all hot water and no cold. Other cold taps work fine
Have moved the lever that opens the mixer to all positions and sometimes we get cold for a short period, 5 seconds or so. Can anyone please advise if this is an easy fix as we are touring for the next month
Thank you
Geoff

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Post by bolero boy Mon Mar 01, 2021 8:09 am

Are you saying there is no physical flow from the cold side? This would suggest a blockage of some kind...or a problem with the two cartridge.....or even a pipe off?
Any water where there shouldn't be?
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Post by Paramedic Mon Mar 01, 2021 8:12 am

Possibly the cold water cartridge needs replacing due to build up of lime scale of other blockage. Regards.

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Post by rgermain Mon Mar 01, 2021 8:25 am

Cold cartridge, has my Warwick got one?  Not another problem! scratch head
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Post by bolero boy Mon Mar 01, 2021 8:29 am

Richard, the 'cartridge' sits in every tap (even the ones at home) and it's the mechanism for allowing hot/cold/blend flow as required from the tap....lime scale, as mentioned, can cause a blockage.
They're easily removable and can be replaced or soaked in wine vinegar or similar to clear limescale.
Don't panic, don't panic! Lol.
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Post by rgermain Mon Mar 01, 2021 10:24 am

bolero boy wrote:Richard, the 'cartridge' sits in every tap (even the ones at home) and it's the mechanism for allowing hot/cold/blend flow as required from the tap....lime scale, as mentioned, can cause a blockage.
They're easily removable and can be replaced or soaked in wine vinegar or similar to clear limescale.
Don't panic, don't panic! Lol.
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Thanks, now I know what the post is about. 

I have actually removed and cleaned the one on the kitchen sink tap, I found the water flow almost stopped, but the bathroom ones were ok.

Word of warning! do not take it apart like I did, a real problem to get it back together, in fact I couldn't . Mine are not like the ones in your link.
Just a good soak as they say does the trick.
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Post by Madmac Mon Mar 01, 2021 7:13 pm

Hi thank you all for the replies, as there is no water where it shouldn’t be I suspect the build up of line scale on the cartridge could be the problem
Will check this later this morning when I figure out how to get the mixer apart and let you know what I find
Cheers
Geoff

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Post by inspiredron Mon Mar 01, 2021 11:00 pm

My mixer taps need a long tamper torx screwdriver to take apart. The head is secured to the cartridge spindle by a small grub screw. You need to unscrew the handle for and then, with a torch, you can see the grub screw. I think it's Torx 10 but can't be sure. I bought a set of Draper Torx tamper proof screwdrivers from Amazon for about £12.  A normal sized torx bit won't fit in the hole. Having removed the head you undo a large nut (mine had been peened to lock it). That allows you to remove the chromed sleeve around the cartridge. The seals are primitive being nylon washers and not o-rings. Watch out for 3 small rubber shaped washers sitting in shaped grooves on the bottom of the cartridge.

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Post by rgermain Wed Mar 03, 2021 3:38 pm

Just fitted this replacement aerator to my kitchen sink tap spout as the original one I broke trying to take it apart rolleyes

Now my question is, when I took the old one out today after running water while testing the A20 tank, the mesh was full of scale. Is it safe to descale the system with Puriclean powder, I think I read on here not to use it in the Truma boiler?

If not what else is good to use?
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Post by Caraman Wed Mar 03, 2021 5:18 pm

The Truma manual states: "We recommend the use of suitable commercially available products to clean, sterilise and maintain the boiler.  Products containing chlorine must not be used."  I have also read that "Puriclean can be used in all water systems including those with stainless steel boilers" but having used it in the past I would say it definitely contains chlorine.  On that basis I wouldn't use it on the Truma.  I have bought citric acid to sterilise and descale the water system.


Last edited by Caraman on Wed Mar 03, 2021 5:18 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : typo)
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Post by rgermain Wed Mar 03, 2021 8:15 pm

Caraman wrote:The Truma manual states: "We recommend the use of suitable commercially available products to clean, sterilise and maintain the boiler.  Products containing chlorine must not be used."  I have also read that "Puriclean can be used in all water systems including those with stainless steel boilers" but having used it in the past I would say it definitely contains chlorine.  On that basis I wouldn't use it on the Truma.  I have bought citric acid to sterilise and descale the water system.
Thank you, citric acid it is then. up!
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Post by MelB Wed Mar 03, 2021 8:55 pm

Caraman wrote:I have bought citric acid to sterilise and descale the water system.
Same here. Use it once a year to clean/descale the water system. In the past I've used it on the kitchen tap filter and the boiler drain valve. Both gummed up with limescale. Worked a treat.
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Post by rgermain Thu Mar 04, 2021 8:29 am

I have ordered some Citric Acid, due tomorrow.

A few simple questions I hope someone will be able to help me and any others thinking of using it.

How much do I need to use and how long should it be left in the tank?

Do I need to heat the water while it is doing it's job?

I assume the best way is to mix it in a watering can and add via the external filler cap, then fill the cold tank to the brim with water, then flush the tank a couple of times?

Thanks for any advice smile!
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Post by bolero boy Thu Mar 04, 2021 8:55 am

As the Combi only takes 10 litres to fill and add in a few more for hot and cold pipework and you need about 15ltres.
You could make this up in bucket and/or watering can and start to part fill the cold tank. Once all the water is in the tank, turn on the pump and fill the hot tank...and yes, you could turn the hot water on for a while.
You don't want to fill the whole cold tank as this will then absorb the citric in it so you'll need to empty all of it before you start refilling and flushing...you only need sufficient to fill the pipes your cleaning, if that makes sense.
Once you're happy it's done it's thing...drain the hot tank and the taps....then partially refill the cold with clean water and refill the hot tank and pipes and then empty..
Repeat a few times with just 15 litres or so and then run the cold taps for a bit to clear any remaining citric.
I've only ever done this process once with some stuff I got on eBay and I have no idea whether it did any good or not. Unless taps are obviously slow or the Combi is noticibly underperforming on hot water heating times, I reckon it's pretty nigh impossible to tell if the flushing has done any good or not...
You could also let the dirty water stay in the waste tank for a bit as this might give that a clean, however as you complete more flushes the water will become cleaner and dilute the waste tank.
When I do my waste tank, I can open a hatch and stick a hose straight in for a good swish around and then add some tank cleaner but that will be tricky if you don't have a cleaning hatch. Perhaps a hose back up the waste tank drain pipe might get rid of some crud but it will be tricky to get any 'tough' cleaner in there....you certainly don't want it going in via the fresh side!!
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Post by Caraman Thu Mar 04, 2021 11:11 am

I was proposing to do it in a similar way but spread over a few days so all parts of the system are sterilised.  Day 1 make up the solution in my 30 litre water barrel.  Pump a small amount into the fresh water tank.  After 24 hours pump the rest into the fresh water tank and leave for 24 hours.  Then fill the hot water tank and pump a bit through all the taps and the toilet flush.  Switch the water heater on for a short time.  Over 24 hours periodically pump a bit through the pipes & taps until the fresh water tank is empty.  Then drain down the system and flush it through with fresh water from the water barrel filled directly from the outside tap rather than the garden hose.
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Post by rgermain Thu Mar 04, 2021 12:12 pm

Thank you both for your time and expertise on the subject.

I will follow the advice and let you know how it goes.
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Post by rgermain Sun Mar 21, 2021 1:01 pm

Well I have followed what has been said above and all seems well, the soda is in the heated up water.

Now I think, well I know, why I have been having to fill the cold water tank more often than I was advised, IE every day unlike some who seem to make a tank full last for days.

Reason being, after putting some 25 ltrs of water in the tank via a watering can, the "excellent" shurflo pump, was mainly pumping air + water. So it seems the existing sub pump which I left in place and draw water through it is not sitting or has decided to float up at the bottom of the tank.

Oh well I have lived with it for the last 5 odd years, so will just top up every time I am passing a tap.
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Post by inspiredron Mon Mar 22, 2021 7:36 am

Floating water inlet would affect cold as well as hot flow and on all taps. Have you checked there is not an airlock in the shower hot line. Also, when I replaced my submersible with a Shurflo ( leaving the submersible in place) I also found I needed to fit a control tap on the shower head because the pressure made it almost impossible to get the right mix of hot and cold and the right flow rate.

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