extra security lock for habitation door

The issue I think is that the habitation door appears not to have deadlocking.  This could be because its fixed window is bonded into the door and made of Makrolon or something like it which is is more resistive to being broken than auto glass.

I had to do the experiment. The above conflicted with my memory.

If the van is non deadlocked it doesn't have to be unlocked in order to deadlock it, merely double clicking the button does the job.

If you operate the locking from inside, the Lock indicator on the dash below the radio flashes once for normal locking, twice for deadlocking allowing you to immediately determine what state it is in. That indicator then continues to flash in both cases.

When you normal lock with the remote key, there is an audible crash of the locking mechanism on all three doors, when you then deadlock there is a further crash not as loud, from all three locks again.

Unlocking from deadlocked is possible using the non remote key in the drivers door. This produces a mechanical noise in all three doors. You can't deadlock using the key in the lock, you can of course lock all three doors.

Since you can open the cab doors with a key when deadlocked, the fact that you can open the Hab door which has apparently been through the same process with its key doesn't prove that its not deadlocked. So without knowing the door mechanism we cant tell. Being able to exit via the Hab door when you are deadlocked in could be a safety feature. Something the NCC may have actually insisted on to ensure safety.

The quote from the web confirms what we already know, (I was going to mention protection from the coat hanger trick) it's general information and not vehicle or Motorhome specific. It does mention the advent of modern self locking, we can assume the Peugeot locking is computer controlled, it may even have its own dedicated ECU, all sorts things are possible.

Without specific information its al speculation.

marconi wrote:
If the van is non deadlocked it doesn't have to be unlocked in order to deadlock it, merely double clicking the button does the job.

....

When you normal lock with the remote key, there is an audible crash of the locking mechanism on all three doors, when you then deadlock there is a further crash not as loud, from all three locks again.

I hadn't tested that bit properly.  What I had tested was that one tap locked it normally.  A further tap didn't then deadlock it.  It had to be a quick double tap to deadlock which I assumed had to be from the unlocked condition.  On my testing I hadn't been able to hear the additional noise caused by deadlocking which normal locking followed by deadlocking reveals.  I wonder if the further crash on the habitation door actually does anything.

Caraman wrote:


I hadn't tested that bit properly.  What I had tested was that one tap locked it normally.  A further tap didn't then deadlock it.  It had to be a quick double tap to deadlock which I assumed had to be from the unlocked condition.  On my testing I hadn't been able to hear the additional noise caused by deadlocking which normal locking followed by deadlocking reveals.  I wonder if the further crash on the habitation door actually does anything.

Yes, I know what I think, but can't prove it, the Hab door certainly remote locks and key locks and accepts another clunk at deadlock. One thing the central locking does visibly to the Hab door is it pulls in the rectangular tab handle, I put the wife inside and locked her in, she confirms manually locking does the same. I am never inside when it gets locked.

It’s an interesting discussion on deadlocking. Knowledge of deadlocking might have been of assistance before the beak-in of my van. I intend to check if deadlocking is possible when I eventually receive the van back from the repairers with its new ignition and keys.
On the day of the break-in I had locked the doors with my spare manual key, not the one with the fob, ie. the one needed to apply the deadlock. Thus deadlocking had not been an option, even if I had been aware of the facility. Luckily however the scum bags attempt to start the engine without the correct key did fortunately trigger the immobiliser into shutting down the ignition system. Even I with my keys was now unable to start the engine.
I accept I could have applied more anti-theft devices in the hope to deter the thief and usually do add more when not in storage. All I had applied to the van on that horrible day was a steering wheel lock. But even this would have not been visible to them because I have the habit of closing all the blinds when the van is in storage. My biggest mistake was however to unwittingly assume that having the van in a Cassoa registered and gold accredited site would be sufficiently secure to deter any would be thief, without having to add any additional anti-theft devices other than the one’s already fitted to the vehicle.
It’s a mistake that will not be repeated.

MelB - thanks for sharing this with us.  Until this thread started I hadn't given any thought to deadlocking and unwittingly I hadn't been using it.  I only ever locked with a single tap on the fob.  I am now getting used to double tapping when we are not inside the van.  I've just been experimenting with my cars.  If they are locked from inside without the fob, they don't deadlock.  When they are locked from the outside with the fob, they only deadlock and with a single tap.  The double tap disables the alarm's motion detector for ferries etc.  The after-market Cobra alarm on my Nuevo doesn't have a motion detector but from time to time its acoustic internal sensors need to be disabled when the van is occupied e.g. overnight or when the van is vacated with a window or top hatch open for ventilation.  For this there is a small alarm programme button on the dash.

Caraman
on most vehicles when  double tapping you here the deadlock working so what makes of car have you got that's not deadlocking when  double tapping

glyne lock wrote:Caraman
on most vehicles when  double tapping you here the deadlock working so what makes of car have you got that's not deadlocking when  double tapping

BMW X3 & Hyundai i10.  Single tapping deadlocks them.  There is no need to double tap to deadlock them.

on my audi and Vauxhalls the fog lights stay on to light up to walk to you door but by  double tapping deadlocks and shuts the electrics down.
MelB
when they pinch vehicles they have a tool that resets the immobiliser to be able to start the vehicle but when you then try and start with what was the correct key then find it will not start as they have reprogrammed the immobiliser

glyne lock wrote:on my audi and Vauxhalls the fog lights stay on to light up to walk to you door but by  double tapping deadlocks and shuts the electrics down.
MelB
when they pinch vehicles they have a tool that resets the immobiliser to be able to start the vehicle but when you then try and start with what was the correct key then find it will not start as they have reprogrammed the immobiliser

Hi GL. Thank you. If the immobiliser was reprogrammed by the scum it might explain why, after the beak-in, I was unable to start the engine with both my ignition keys, one with the fob, the other without. I thought the sole reason for my failure to start the engine was due to the damage done to the ignition system, especially the barrel and wiring. But your observations might be correct. The repairers have already indicated I will be able to retain the original keys, after they have replaced the damaged ignition system. The van is a Boxer conversion so I will expect Peugeot will be given the task for reprogramming the new ignition system so I am able to use the original set of keys.

MelB wrote:

glyne lock wrote:on my audi and Vauxhalls the fog lights stay on to light up to walk to you door but by  double tapping deadlocks and shuts the electrics down.
MelB
when they pinch vehicles they have a tool that resets the immobiliser to be able to start the vehicle but when you then try and start with what was the correct key then find it will not start as they have reprogrammed the immobiliser

Hi GL. Thank you. If the immobiliser was reprogrammed by the scum it might explain why, after the beak-in, I was unable to start the engine with both my ignition keys, one with the fob, the other without. I thought the sole reason for my failure to start the engine was due to the damage done to the ignition system, especially the barrel and wiring. But your observations might be correct. The repairers have already indicated I will be able to retain the original keys, after they have replaced the damaged ignition system. The van is a Boxer conversion so I will expect Peugeot will be given the task for reprogramming the new ignition system so I am able to use the original set of keys.

I should have said sorry to here about the damage they may have done but I think you may also have been lucky they did not get away as there is no stopping the professional thief an immobiliser makes no difference no more .a tracker I think is a must now days for a car caravan camper even plant machines like I move .lots of plant machines get pinched as most use the same key but with the tracker can most times be traced and found . machines now are fitted with a tracker that if moved away from a site position the engine will cut out