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Reversing Camera problem

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Post by hutchipg Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:39 am

The screen on my VEBA AV70 has gone blank, dead, and I cannot gain access to anything.  Have tested the remote; battery good and signal ok (Tested with digital camera).  Cannot find any info on the web.  Any ideas, please?
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Post by Gromit Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:48 am

None at all I'm afraid.

The website is about as much use as a fag on a motorbike, and the only information I've ever been able to find is complaints about what a cheap and nasty system it is.

I did look into replacing it with one that has a far better narrower angle lens for use as a rear view camera, but the plugs on the wiring are incompatible with anything else known to an auto electrician I asked. I gave up in the end, and put up with a far too wide angle rear view!

Sorry to add doom to your gloom. I hope someone will come on and contradict, as I would still like a better camera.
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:05 pm

hutchipg wrote:The screen on my VEBA AV70 has gone blank, dead, and I cannot gain access to anything.  Have tested the remote; battery good and signal ok (Tested with digital camera).  Cannot find any info on the web.  Any ideas, please?

Did you use the camera as a monitor to test the camera or as a camera to test the monitor and where did you connect it?

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Post by hutchipg Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:27 pm

I used my hand held camera (not the one on the motorhome) to test the remote was working by pointing the remote at the a digital camera lens. As the camera can see infra red you can see the beam flashing in the camera viewfinder or screen.
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Post by meanchris Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:50 pm

Gromit wrote:None at all I'm afraid.

The website is about as much use as a fag on a motorbike, and the only information I've ever been able to find is complaints about what a cheap and nasty system it is.

I did look into replacing it with one that has a far better narrower angle lens for use as a rear view camera, but the plugs on the wiring are incompatible with anything else known to an auto electrician I asked. I gave up in the end, and put up with a far too wide angle rear view!

Sorry to add doom to your gloom. I hope someone will come on and contradict, as I would still like a better camera.

Not wishing to hijack the thread but, I've been looking for the same Gromit.

Somebody pointed me to a high quality narrow angle CCD bullet camera that's carried in stock by parkingcameras.com but not advertised on the site.

I already have the wide angle version, so I'm going to add the NA version as a rear view and general reversing aid camera.

PM me for details.

Sorry OP, back to topic...
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 02, 2018 2:09 pm

hutchipg wrote:I used my hand held camera (not the one on the motorhome) to test the remote was working by pointing the remote at the a digital camera lens. As the camera can see infra red you can see the beam flashing in the camera viewfinder or screen.

The power comes from the same fuse in the EM50 as the fridge. Does your fridge work on 12v with the engine running?

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Post by hutchipg Mon Apr 02, 2018 2:33 pm

It did. I shall have to check if it still does.  There lies the next problem. Where are the fuses? Not all are where the manuals state.  Back down to the Motorhome. Back soon.
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Post by Gromit Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:04 pm

Thanks Meanchris.

PM sent.
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 02, 2018 3:42 pm

hutchipg wrote:It did. I shall have to check if it still does.  There lies the next problem. Where are the fuses? Not all are where the manuals state.  Back down to the Motorhome. Back soon.

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You'll see an image of the EM50 at the link above.  It is often on the back of the drivers seat base for a van of your age. The function of each fuse is on the label. The red light on the EM50 just means its receiving power. The blade fuse holders have no guide so it is VERY easy to only partly connect a fuse.

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Post by hutchipg Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:14 pm

Got it, Peter.  Know where to go now. Have just been talking to owner of local CL and heand one of his clients have had similar problems with nearly new cameras and neither had success in fixing even after visits to auto electricians.
Just as well I tend only to use the wing mirrors.  Might just replace the unit for a higher quality one.
Thanks for your help.
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Post by Peter Brown Mon Apr 02, 2018 4:48 pm

There is a power supply/interface board in the camera/monitor system. They used to install them above the interior light in the cab but were found to cause interference so where moved elsewhere around the time your van was built. In Peugeot van conversions they are under a trim panel to the front of the drivers side footwell but I don't know if they were put there on coachbuilts. If you can find the panel, you can access both video inputs to connect a camera to them to test the monitor.

There may be a panel in one of the lockers above the bed through which you can access the camera connection but they went fitted as standard so it may be necessary to cut the panel yourself - be very careful. The cable between the interface unit and the camera contains an inline unit towards the camera end that may be a 12v to 5v convertor but I've not been able to test one. AS fault the system by substituting components - we don't have that luxury.

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Post by hutchipg Mon Apr 02, 2018 5:59 pm

Thanks for the info Peter, very helpful. I'll have another venture tomorrow when the weather is better. I'm parked back to wind and struggling not to lose a door in the wind.
Thanks again.
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Post by spanner Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:09 pm

Ours Broadway is a 2013 and will probably have the same Veba system as yours.
All the connections were in the rooflining above the mirror. 
I removed the interior light and pulled on the black cable from the monitor and the control box and inline fuse etc were just tucked behind the headlining, if this fuse has failed your system will not work.
Due to water ingress in the camera I fitted a different camera which did involve making a new connection to the original wiring at the plug and socket behind the camera, this does involve cutting an access hole in the back of the cupboard behind the camera.
Autosleeper perhaps have more faith in the life of camera than their customers do and in their wisdom don’t provide an access cover  scratch head
I cut my own hole with a circular hole cutter and fitted a cover about the size of a beer mat, it looks tidy and you only see the cover if the cupboard is empty.
I’ve since had the monitor/ control box fail and replaced the monitor with a similar one and all is well, camera and monitor via eBay for less than £50 total and I’m very happy with the images.
I used the original front to rear cable but it did require soldering new  connections at both ends, in my case easier than running a new cable.
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Post by Gromit Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:34 pm

Hi Spanner

This sounds like one that would be very much appreciated in the Fact Sheets section.

If you have time, would you be kind enough to do an instruction sheet, with as many photos as possible, and I'll put it in that section.

I know there are a number of others who would very much like to replace the Veba system, obviously using the existing cabling if possible, but I suspect most of them are nearly as thick as me when it comes to anything electronic.  Whistle1
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Post by spanner Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:15 pm

hutchipg wrote:The screen on my VEBA AV70 has gone blank, dead, and I cannot gain access to anything.  Have tested the remote; battery good and signal ok (Tested with digital camera).  Cannot find any info on the web.  Any ideas, please?
First thing to do is check the supply fuse and the cable connections above the rooflining, just be careful removing the cover on the interior light, once the cover is removed undo the 2 screws and the interior light is only retained by 2 plastic clips, the wiring and control unit (about the size of a box of matches) is only inches away, once you’ve done it once the job only takes 5 minutes, really !
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Post by spanner Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:42 pm

You may find this useful, unplug 2 connections on the light and with the light removed there are 2 plastic lugs that hold the plastic frame into the headlining you’ll find the cables tucked up above the headlining 
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Post by hutchipg Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:17 am

Well anticipated.  My next question was to be, "how to remove the light".  Thanks. very useful.
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Post by spanner Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:38 pm

Gromit wrote:Hi Spanner

This sounds like one that would be very much appreciated in the Fact Sheets section.

If you have time, would you be kind enough to do an instruction sheet, with as many photos as possible, and I'll put it in that section.

I know there are a number of others who would very much like to replace the Veba system, obviously using the existing cabling if possible, but I suspect most of them are nearly as thick as me when it comes to anything electronic.  Whistle1

Please see the attached photos for gaining access to the rear camera fixing position and wiring.
 
Initially I used the short cable from the original Veba rear camera complete with plug and spliced it to the new camera cable, it's a bit delicate to do but worked for me.
Later when the Veba monitor failed I cut the connectors off both ends of the factory fitted cable and then fitted a couple of Phono plugs at the front end to simply plug in the new mirror monitor.

Take very careful measurements to find correct position before cutting the hole, I positioned a piece of tape on the rear window below the old camera and used the tape as a datum for the measurements.

The inner board is approx 4-5mm thick, when cutting the hole I taped a piece of plastic to the side of the cupboard to protect the wood finish, no need to cut deeper than 5mm to remove the inner board, the rest is only polystyrene insulation and a paper membrane, the camera is retained with a 13mm hexagon nut with the cable passing through it.

The second cable in the photo is for the high level brake light.

I replaced the insulation with a ball of bubble wrap and Gaffer Tape, the cover is a piece of thin Formica, when Autosleeper do this job I think they probably fit a false back to the cupboard and  then you wouldn't notice the repair at all.


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Post by Gromit Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:26 am

Thanks Spanner.

MOT today so I'll deal with it later.

Cheers
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Post by hutchipg Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:12 am

Thanks Spanner. One problem leads to another; now got live neutral on the house electrics to contend with.  Would not have known about that if I had not been attending to the camera problem.
Thanks again everyone.
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Post by hutchipg Fri Apr 06, 2018 11:03 am

Never got the camera working and as I always use the mirrors I am treating it as a lost cause. I shall consider a quality replacementment instead.
However, I had an interesting parallel problem running whilst attending to the camera which at first I thought was related to it, and it is worth noting for future reference.

The motor home was connected to my garage mains at the time. As I was about to cut the power the red polarity warning light came on. I thought Ihad caused it playing with the camera.  However, after thoroughtly investigating the situation, including a conversation with "Seargeant" who were no help at all, I plugged a simple socket tester in various 13a sockets in the garage and the house. 
It displayed "no earth" on the display. My electrician called in straight away and after many tests concluded that somhow the neutral line was being back-fed making all swithes and sockets permanently live and showing 130v at his meter. The problem was in the mains supply to the property.  SSE came out, cut my supply and installed a generator for the whole area.  After investigating other properties they concluded that faulty wiring at another property was causing the problem.
They were very intrigued at how the fault was discovered by someone investigating a problem with a reversing camera in a motorhome.
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