Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting

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Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting - Page 2 Empty Re: Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting

Post by inspiredron on Sun Sep 15, 2013 8:53 pm

That is a very helpful test and very illuminating. I was amazed that a typical voltage drop across a 40A fuse should be as much as 0.1V. And with those levels of temperature rise I am amazed that car fuses are almost always enclosed in boxes.

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Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting - Page 2 Empty Re 30amp fuse melting

Post by wwinky on Mon Sep 16, 2013 7:34 pm

I had same problem 04 Nuevo advised to fit 30 amp maxi fuse and maxi fuse holder from halfords this worked for me 
                     Ww inkyWw inky
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Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting - Page 2 Empty Re: Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting

Post by Peterm on Sun Sep 22, 2013 12:18 am

It's my Nuevo that Peter Brown helped repair in France. The fuse box melted a couple of years ago with a horrible smell of burning. Attempts to wedge another fuse in failed miserably. Anyway, Phil West gave me two spade connectors and we cut the wires to the super melty super naff fuse block, crimped on the spades, addes lots of insulation tape, replaced the fuse and low and behold, 300 miles of successful driving with the fridge on engine feed.

The two wires from the back of the fuse - One goes to the fridge, one loops around to the relay. There was plenty of slack on both.

Conclussion. High resistance fuse mounting due to the inferior plastic being unable to hold the fuse contacts tightly causing arcing which melts the fuse.

Thanks to Phil, Peter and Baz for advice and help.
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Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting - Page 2 Empty Fire hazard

Post by SteveplusChris on Thu Sep 26, 2013 5:53 pm

brains wrote:As someone with a degree in electronics I ought to be able to suss this, but in vain. My AS manual has a circuit diagram that does not represent what is in the van, and nobody at AS seems able to provide an accurate description.

To the fault: Green 30A fuse under the drivers seat has melted. AS advised replace with an inline fuse which I have done. I was aware of no problems with the 12V systems until the smell of burning plastic.  But after fuse replacement I have these symptoms:
1. with engine off, the 12V LED does not light on the fridge, but all other 12V systems seem to be functioning ok. control panel shows yellow on both batteries.
2. with the engine running, the fridge LED comes on, but no lights, pump etc. work, and control panel voltmeter does not register at all
3. with master switch and fridge off, from cold, driving the van a quarter of a mile up the road, the replacement fuse is now red host, and will presumably burn out again.

A few hours prior to the initial burnout I had gently nudged a tree while reversing into a parking space, which broke the top offside rear lamp casing. No other damage apparent, bulb intact, and lamp still works. Could this have somehow(!!) precipitated the fault? Trapped wiring is my only guess.

Can anyone explain this and suggest where the fault might lie?


(mod request:  could you do an intro please as we request when you join the forum - thanks roli)
If you are really melting a 30 amp fuse you have a potentially dangerous problem. Something is drawing way to much current. A 30 amp fuse is fitted to allow for peaks in consumption but there is nothing fitted in your van that would draw 30 amps plus off one circuit so you have a problem. I agree that you should start at the battery, however if it was a bad as some suggest it will be giving off a very fishy smell and even be hot to touch. All wiring should be checked for chaffing or pinching and look for wiring going darker in colour in places, suggesting it is cooking. All things considered you should not be attempting to run your MH until this is checked out by a profesional for your safetys sake. I would immediatley remove your leisure battery, remove the offending fuse and have a fire extinguisher handy!!! This is not a joke !!
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Nuevo 30 amp fuse melting - Page 2 Empty Battery duff

Post by brains on Thu Oct 17, 2013 3:44 pm

Have at last got round to testing the battery, and its clearly duff. After a few idle weeks voltage was 5.6V. Put it on mains charge for a couple of hours and it got to 12.5, but had self-discharged to 11.5 within an hour.

Looking to replace it I can't get the bloody thing out. The driver's seat is fixed with 2 13mm bolts at front - no problem, but at the back there are two allen key bolts with (I think) a 16mm nut underneath. Not enough room to get a socket onto the nut, or even a ring spanner, Tried a long allen key and it will obviously break if I push any harder - it seems AS just don't want you to remove the seat - why didn't they just use 4x13mm bolts?  Anyone got a tip? The battery is just too large to tip over and slide out - its got to be through the seat.

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