Trooper Pop Top Removal

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Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Thu May 05, 2011 11:33 pm

Hi Guys,

I was recommended to ask for help about this from my usual 80-90 forum.

I have a T25 1983 Autosleeper Trooper Conversion (i think)

Due to some nasty rust around where the fitters screwed my pop top into the roof I need to figure out how to remove the Poptop so my welder can get to the area in question.

Thread on my rust :( 80-90 Thread

I think my van is a Autosleeper Trooper (1983). There is no visible rivets on the outside and the inside is fitted with carpet materiel so again cannot see any of the fixings :(

Does anyone have any ideas or knowledge of these poptops?















Any help would be a godsend as to reduce costs (and possible damage) I need to at least have the front free enough to jacked up a bit so the welders can get in there.

Thankyou for your time :)
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by stevomar on Thu May 05, 2011 11:45 pm

Hi bmouthboyo and welcome to the Forum

Can't help you myself cos mine's a Hi Top but there are a few T25 Trooper owners on here including ade700 and fufflenarnia (who's actually renovating one) so it may well be worth PMing either of them to ask.
Let us know how you get on mate and good luck
Cheers
Stevo

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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Tue Nov 29, 2011 11:27 am

bump* really struggling with what to do here
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:07 pm

Anyone point me in direction of info regarding removing this pop top roof so I can have welding done?

Thanks
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T25 rotten roofs

Post by fufflenarnia on Sun Feb 12, 2012 4:25 pm

This is a message for Bmouthboy, for some reason I cannot PM you so have a look here first:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54122951@N02/



Good luck!

Steve
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Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by fufflenarnia on Sun Feb 12, 2012 7:39 pm

The roofs are glued and rivited on.

The rust comes around the rivet holes and will look pretty scary, but it was pretty easy to patch.

You can still get the rubber seals from Autosleeper, around £3 per meter.

I had the roof suspended from the garage roof.

The high top gutters were not too good so I cut them out and replaced them with aluminium angle - 12mm I think - from Wickes

After the repairs, fit the seals to the top, fill the cleaned gutters and joins at the front with a liberal amount of sikaflex (amazing stuff, will stick anything to anything). Have a can of panelwipe and plenty of cloths available to clean off the excess sealant.

Drop the top on the sealant, clean off the excess sealant (quickly) an re fit the rivets (if you want - i did and used lots of sealant around the rivet to stop water penetration and hopefully the rust). .

And Bob is your dads brother!
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:10 pm

Thanks for the reply fufflenarnia , It is very hard to find any information regarding these autosleeper roofs being removed etc, so I greatly appreciate your comments :)

Firstly as far as I can see only the front was screwed into the roof, not rivetted!



That is what has rotted and allowed water to run down the window seams etc and into the foot well.

The rear does not seem to be screwed / riveted nor the sides from what I can see on the outside. However it is leaking from what I can see is rot in the corners like yours.

I have been told on 80 - 90 forum that the roof may be secured from the inside! Which would be a nightmare as I would have to rip out all the carpet trim around the roof / poptop joins. Did you have to remove any interior trim at all from inside the roof join?

How likely do you think this may be the case? Did yours only have the front and rear secured with rivets under the rubber seal?

What tool did you use to break the old sealant all around? On mine there is a very brittle lip in the gutter which seems so brittle I think it might be paint?! But if it is not and is part of the roof I have no idea how I can get anything under it given the angle.





Also how much sealant did you have to use? And what is the aluminium guttering you mentioned?


Thanks again mate

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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by fufflenarnia on Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:32 pm

Hi, it looks very similar to mine, same fixing etc. and rot!

I did not have to remove any trim from the inside, they are completely separate - there were 2 small screws on my high top, but they were inside the front locker, and you don't have one of them. The only fixing were behind the rubber seals on the front and back - rivets on mine.

The plastic gutter you have was the same as mine, this is bonded on to the roof and it the bit I cut off and replaced with ally angle as it was tatty. I will put a photo up when I get a chance.

To separate the top I ran a Stanley knife inside the gutter, between the fiberglass roof and the metal gutter, after you have done a meter or so you can start to lift it from the inside, just by pushing up on the top. I started from the back and worked forward as you can push up a bit easier on the roof. The Stanley knife was ideal, make sure you have plenty of blades, it bends just enough.

I gave the gutters a really good clean with a grinder with wire brush attachment. I had to repair a few rust holes (filled with weld and ground off) and a good treatment with quality rust paint.

For sealant, I just filled the gutters nicely, you have to work quite quickly.

It is worth taking your time on.

Have fun! Steve.
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by fufflenarnia on Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:35 pm

Oh, and when you get to welding you will need to take the front screen out and possibly remove the tailgate (if you have rust at the back ).

Steve
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:45 pm

Any other pictures you have would be great! They all help piece the puzzle together. Do you have any pictures of the sealant you laid? (guessing at that point you were working too fast to lol). I am surprised the Stanley knife is enough to remove the sealant as it must be some way under the edge of the roof too?

How did you attach this aluminium angle to the roof?

Unfortunately I cannot weld myself so going to have to take the van to a local welder for the work. I have sourced a front roof section for him to butcher and hoping to minimise costs by getting as much done myself. I think I will try and get the roof loose so to speak and tie it down with slops for the short journey and may even ask them to reseal the roof as I do not have the lifting equipment like you do to suspend it :(

I have not riveted etc. before so considering just relying on the sealant being enough to keep the roof secure given it has a lower profile as a pop top, or would you advise against that?

How long would you suggest a welder would take to fabricate / weld what you had to do?

Cheers
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Wed Feb 29, 2012 6:28 pm

UPDATE:

OK so had a little poke about before the inevitable and just wondered A) What this white right angle stuff is and B) What does it do / will I need to replace? and what with if so?





As you can see the fibre glass is very brittle, gently does it lol

I am striping the interior out in the next few weeks to allow the rear windows to be welded and so I can see any other areas in need of welding. Once the interior is out I will attack the roof in Ernest.
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by CC on Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:23 pm

Keep us updated on your progress bmouthboyo... it will be very rewarding when it's completed up!

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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by bmouthboyo on Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:27 pm

OK so interior now stripped out and found all the fixings / screws for the wooden frame in the pop top roof.







I removed all the upper trim as carefully as possible so I can use them as templates when replacing. Unfortunately I could not get the roof up separately from the wooden bed frame etc. as others have, somehow its still secured. So off will all the screws pictured above and hey presto...

Upon inspection the rust underneath is not as bad as I was expecting and with my front repair section hopefully the welders will go easy on me:

FOS Corner



FNS Corner


ROS Corner



RNS Corner



getting there :)
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Re: Trooper Pop Top Removal

Post by Edstar1979 on Fri Nov 02, 2012 2:15 pm

Hi bmouthboyo,

It would appear as though we are suffering from similar problems. I have a 1984 T25 Autosleeper Pop-Top which is showing the same rust patches as your van. Our van had been repainted before we bought it and we can now see why. The first thing we knew about the problem was water leaking in through the inner panels below the tailgate. Upon further investigation, it would appear as though the roof joints have been leaking for a considerable time, with internal corrosion evident inside the o/s rear panels.

As I have no large garage and little bodywork experience, I am grateful for any insights on offer, such as the great pictures provided by yourself and flufflenarnia. I think that I will be elevating the roof from the inside, using timbers to keep the roof in the air and draping a tarpaulin over the top to keep everything dry. I will start a thread and start uploading phots over the next few days.

Overall, we will be removing the ghastly turquoise rattle can job that has been inflicted on our poor van and returning it to its original off white with burgundy Autosleeper decal, fixing the corrosion (top joints, o/s rear window panel and o/s wheel arch panel), designing and building a leisure battery loop and internal electrics and reupholstering the interior.

I would be grateful for any advice or insight that this forum can offer as we are on a budget and have limited experience. Good luck with your renovations bmouthboyo and flufflenarnia. I will be watching with interest to see how you guys progress. :-)
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