Which sealant/fixative/gasket?

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Which sealant/fixative/gasket? Empty Which sealant/fixative/gasket?

Post by Spockydog on Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:32 am

Hi guys
Been away in the wilds of Holland and I disconnected the electric from the side of my motorhome and it's always been a tight fit and frankly trying to hold down the blue lever and pulling the connector is awkward at best. Well this time the housing came away from the body. The screws and sealant have given up. I also filled up the toilet flush through the outside filler and noticed this housing had moved as well. So my questions are, what sealant, fixative to stick them back and make them watertight, are they easy to remove so I can clean the surface and what do the screws actually screw into? Is there a gasket alternative. Its a 2015 Broadway EL Duo Cheers Spocky
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Post by Roopert on Tue Oct 15, 2019 11:55 am

I've found that some of the "Commando" type plugs are a ridiculously tight fit - I actually took the plug off one of my EHU leads and threw it away (in the metals recycling) because there seemed to be no way to make it any less tight. When you have replaced your socket it may be worth trying other plugs to see if you can get a better fit.

Looking at the subject from another direction, I would strongly suggest that you resist the temptation to use something like Sikaflex to stick it in, because I have had the dubious pleasure of having to replace one on the Trooper (the plastic door had become too badly cracked) and if you stick it in too well that's a really difficult job to do! When I put the new one in, I just used a thin smear of clear silicone on each side of the gasket (supplied with the new socket) and then a narrow bead of clear silicone around the perimeter of the socket when tightened up.

Ours was held in with just stainless self-tappers into the metal body of the van, and these were tight enough - but I don't think that helps you at all with a Broadway, does it? You may need to resort to something like spire nuts glued to the inside of the panel if A/S have self-tapped into a material that doesn't take self-tappers well (e.g. GRP).
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Post by Dbvwt on Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:01 pm

I used Sikaflex 252 to bond my bike rack to the van (as recommended by Thule). If I was looking to repair items such as you are I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for that purpose also.
Sure there are cheaper alternatives which I’m sure will be recommended by others.

Edit.....Good reason above just posted to perhaps avoid my suggestion smile!
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Post by inspiredron on Tue Oct 15, 2019 4:53 pm

I have just had to remove the Whale water inlet to replace the cover flap. A few years ago, but just out of warranty, the Service dept had resealed it because it was leaking. Wow - was it sealed!  There was so much Sikaflex everywhere that it was hell to remove and extremely difficult to clean up the surface of the van before putting it back. I used a reasonably delicate bead all round. The 4 securing screws only bite on the fibre glass shell so are not sufficient without a glue type sealant. And don't overtighten the screws - one of mine won't tighten (not my fault!). Do put sealant on the screw threads to stop any leaks there.

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Post by Spockydog on Wed Oct 16, 2019 8:11 am

Thanks guys, I know about sikaflex but what makes are you using Roopert/Inspiredron as I have checked all the bodywork attachments (Its finally stopped raining) and most will need resealing.!!
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Post by inspiredron on Wed Oct 16, 2019 11:33 am

I used Sikaflex 291.  I had to buy some back in May when my high level brake light lost a few of its led's and needed replacement. That had been glued in with 3 or 4 blobs of sealant and consequently some damp got in and killed the led's sensored1
I was surprised to find a couple of weeks ago that the rest of the tube had remained fully useable.  But, as i said, in resealing the Whale to the body I was very careful to put an adequate amount to make a good seal (and glue!) so that future removal would not be difficult and not to put it on with a trowel.  Delicate, particularly around the hinge, but not difficult.  Because one of th etop screws did not tighten fully I was pleased to have used a sealant/fixer.  I needed that for the high level light as there is no screw fixing!

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Post by Roopert on Wed Oct 16, 2019 12:35 pm

I suspect that for applications like that, the make and grade is not particularly important - I've used Purflex and Soudaflex before with good results in similar applications.

Most recently I've been using Sika EBT+, which I think is a hybrid of PU and something else. It's way cheaper than some of the other PU grades and seems to work very well. It's what I used to re-do the seal around our solar panel when the original CT1 degraded and fell apart due to UV degradation after less than 2 years.
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Post by Spockydog on Wed Oct 16, 2019 9:14 pm

Thanks I'll give them a go if it warms or dries up, (next spring then)
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