Traumatic S3002 heater (not water)

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Post by Spokes on Thu Sep 26, 2019 10:17 pm

confused3 had the heater on for 10 mins , turned it off and then heard a click and now the switch with tiny light not coming on?

Any ideas please?
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Post by Peter Brown on Fri Sep 27, 2019 9:58 am

Which power setting were you using?
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Post by PLOUGHLIN on Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:20 am

What number is the thermostat set at?

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Post by steamdrivenandy on Fri Sep 27, 2019 10:43 am

It's 15 degrees C outside here at present, so I doubt that it's below 20 degrees or so in an insulated van even without a heater. Suspect the thermostat has switched the elements off as it's so warm.

PS it's Trumatic, though traumatic might be more appropriate.
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Post by Spokes on Sun Sep 29, 2019 9:18 pm

Thanks for your help, stuck up in Harrogate at the moment in the poring rain, tried the suggestions above, luckily heater works on gas. Could it be a fuse?
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Post by PLOUGHLIN on Sun Sep 29, 2019 10:17 pm

As far as I know the only "fuse" is the 10A MCB on the PSU. There is no fuse on the heater circuit board.

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Post by Peter Brown on Mon Sep 30, 2019 1:25 pm

Spokes wrote:Thanks for your help, stuck up in Harrogate at the moment in the poring rain, tried the suggestions above, luckily heater works on gas. Could it be a fuse?

A van of the age of yours will typically have the following:

230v supply from one of the circuit breakers in the consumer unit to a discrete isolation switch located in the wardrobe or cupboard, the switch unit may include a 10A fuse (mine does but some don't). The on/off switch (dial) that has three 'on' settings; 500W, 1000W & 2000W and a central dial calibrated from 1 to 9 that is the thermostatic control for the unit.

Check the RCD and circuit breaker are on and that other 230v devices in the van work. Locate the isolation switch, check the fuse is ok and switch it on. Set the on switch to 2000 and the thermostat to 9 and in about 5 mins you should feel some heat.
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Post by steamdrivenandy on Mon Sep 30, 2019 2:15 pm

And if Peter's suggestions don't produce any heat then it might be that the element is unserviceable and needs replacing.
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Post by Dave 418 on Mon Sep 30, 2019 8:25 pm

Not sure if this is the same problem as we had with our heater. The heating suddenly stoped working and the light in the switch was not lit. After a bit of thinking I realised the switch is has a fuse in it, above the switch.
The fuse holder had melted. As a try and see I bought a new switch complete with a fuse. The first time I tried the heating the fuse blew again. I have know cheap fuses to do this so I bought some slow blow fuses and this cured the problem.
We find the heater on gas is more efficient and warms us up quicker. During the winter we some times leave the electric heating on the lowest setting when we are out for the day if only to dry the towels in the bathroom.
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Post by davemarshall on Mon Sep 30, 2019 8:47 pm

Hi, We had the same or similar problem with our Truma Ultraheat and it turned out to be the transformer on the circuit board. The transformer was around £5 off ebay, 4 soldered connections but took about me 4 hrs to do the job. The description is on page 10 of this forum as 'Truma Ultraheat no green light'. Hope this helps.
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Post by steamdrivenandy on Mon Sep 30, 2019 9:15 pm

One big problem I've always found is getting the Truma casing off and worse still putting it back on. There is a technique and if you get it right it should stay put on it's own without bending any of the wire hook things and without resorting to a screw to retain it. In fact many well trained caravan/motorhome techs can't even master the refit and resort to a small screw to hold it in place. However that's a testament to failure to master the technique. However why it should be so hard to do is one of those mysteries.
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Post by Spokes on Fri Oct 04, 2019 4:21 pm

Thanks for all your suggestions, could be the pcb, so going to get it checked out and replaced if needed.
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