Nuevo poor workmanship

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Post by Caraman on Wed Aug 28, 2019 10:55 pm

Gef

My problems are/were not caused by switching the EC700 off before the Truma CP.  I take a mirror with me now and a head torch.  I was told by the dealer to hold the reset button down until the amber LED comes on.  There are 3 LEDs in a row close to the reset button - green, amber and red.  I don’t think I have actually seen the reset button, I feel for it with my finger.  The existence of the LEDs like the reset procedure is not in any document I have seen.
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Post by inspiredron on Wed Aug 28, 2019 11:55 pm

My drawer is tight to remove but it does not need undue force. No trace of scuffing around the aperture and certainly no snagging of materials. Dave's cutouts would be an improvement but I haven't got round to it.

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Post by gef on Thu Aug 29, 2019 2:50 pm

Caraman
I have not seen led lights as like you it was feel around behind  the twin wires.  I believe faults are not in the book as they were not supposed to happen could be a surprise to autosleeper and truma.  I do not now your motorhome knowledge but on the first water heat of the season I alwys bleed from a tap after 10 mins as there is often an air pocket which stops heater getting to temp
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Post by marconi on Thu Aug 29, 2019 3:44 pm

Browsing through the AS Forum this morning I have found mention of non removable under wardrobe drawers from 2016. Some character has been doing this and damaging the timber runners in my case and for Dickie9, for some time, all for the sake of 3mm of scruffy plywood edging. Such operatives have no place in any operation and will never change.

Off topic which doesn't worry me at all, I have learned an awful lot on forums when off topic comments are made.

Caraman and I have been debating the Error 514 issue for a while and I wanted to find the Reset Switch, just in case I need to use it on that cold night in Timbukthree.
First I had to remove my fit once only drawer, then follow the instructions given by Caraman's dealer which included a photograph of the wrong Printed Circuit Board (PCB) with an arrow pointing to a Reset Switch which does not exist. I have found that my Combi 6 does not have a said switch, it has the same PCB as the photo the dealer used.

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Above my PCB, photo taken today.

My conclusions are, that there are two versions of the Combi 6 used currently and for several years. Our research has found no references to this, only confusion in that some users say that Error 514 needs to be corrected by pressing the Reset Switch and others that if you leave it for 15 mins then press the big button on the Truma control it clears. Obviously Caraman and geff have Nuevo's 3 years apart that have  Combi 6 versions with a Reset Switch. Bailey of Bristol talk only of waiting 15 mins in there FAQ section.
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Post by gef on Thu Aug 29, 2019 4:09 pm

Marconi
I had a new boiler fitted recently with truma control box but not with any control by app.  My previous boiler failed to work properly for 3 years do to one live wire not connected properly. A very long story.  The reset button is very small( pointy end of a biro) and behind and below  two wires to the left .
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Post by marconi on Thu Aug 29, 2019 6:00 pm

gef wrote:Marconi
I had a new boiler fitted recently with truma control box but not with any control by app.  My previous boiler failed to work properly for 3 years do to one live wire not connected properly. A very long story.  The reset button is very small( pointy end of a biro) and behind and below  two wires to the left .

Oh golly you have confused it more  hugegrins 

On the left, is that not the thermal cut out button. Caraman will tell us his Reset Button is on the right. That is looking at the PCB photo. When you limbo dance through the wardrobe door cut out and lean over the boiler that would be on the right. The Truma illustration of that is below, labelled 45.

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Post by postman on Thu Aug 29, 2019 8:12 pm

Mine (Warwick Duo 2013) is exactly the same as in Marconi's photo. It has no reset button. Mine doesn't have a display of fault codes either. It's a case of watching the flash code - led flashes two batches of four mixed long and short flashes repeatedly. It's easier than it sounds to match the flashes to a list of flash codes. I have obtained a pdf as used by dealers to diagnose and list of actions for repair. They are numbered 1 -  255  so I can only guess code 514 possibly (possibly not, treat this as an example)) translates to code 214 on my list which says :
214: l.l.s.l.     s.l.l.s.   (s = short flash, l = long flash)
Fault: electronic fault.   Fault description: failure in electronic PCB
1st action : recheck fault code.  2nd action: restart heater.
3rd action : replace electronic PCB.

Sorry this is all rather wordy, but no reset button or code readout required.
I can't manage to share the list of codes and actions as its a pdf downloaded on my ancient Kindle, but always happy to look flash codes up for any forum member if it helps. The flash code saved me ££££'s by diagnosing combustion air motor drawing too high a current. Easy to replace myself once the problem was known.
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Post by marconi on Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:06 pm

Thanks postman

After a little thought I was pretty sure that gef was visualising the PCB as viewed from behind, not realising that I had used my new Panasonic 1G pixel Xray colour camera to photograph through the wall of the Nuevo, well, actually its all done with mirrors  smile! .

I have found a 2019 list of engineer codes, not available for download, but I can overcome that with a little effort, they actually go up to 858.
Yes they are easy to read, I read them as Morse code your example is QP. Its well worth having them just in case.

Earlier I wrote :-
When you limbo dance through the wardrobe door cut out and lean over the boiler that would be on the right.
Of course that should read left.


Last edited by marconi on Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:14 pm; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Correction to an ealier post added)
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Post by postman on Thu Aug 29, 2019 10:21 pm

To be honest I have to stand on my head to see mine, so it made perfect sense to me.
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Post by safariboy on Fri Aug 30, 2019 9:01 am

I have had to change  the 240V fuse (more difficult than the 12V one) .  Taking a photo with a mobile phone makes the job much clearer.
I have not discussed this with Autosleepers but wonder if taking the two air hoses that come out under the wardrobe and bringing them into the locker might help with the fuse problem. Looking at my heater it is so wound round with hoses that it it not surprising that it overheats,  It would also solve the problem that the air distribution is not good.
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Post by postman on Fri Aug 30, 2019 9:10 am

Safariboy, a different motor home to ours I know, but it's worth checking that all the flexi air ducts are securely attached to the heater outlet stubs. We had a problem with nearby water hoses going brittle and cracking - turned out to be due to hot air from a detached flexi in a rather inaccessible spot blowing on the pipes.
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