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Post by chudders on Thu Nov 05, 2015 5:45 pm

Peter Brown wrote:
PLOUGHLIN wrote:chudders, I have a house built 1975, with underground cables (no access manholes in the street either), no cableing mods have been carried out since then. I am I right that it is unlikely that my supply is PME?

It would be inappropriate to speculate.  The only way to be certain how your installation is configured is inspection/testing by a qualified electrician.
Thanks Peter for pre empting my reply. Examination is necessary. It may well be PME . it was and is used extensively in towns. there is no way of knowing with out seeing the incoming cutout (fuse) which is or should be sealed. Or ask your electricity supplier (not who you pay the bill to) In this area it is as an example Western Power. You may know who it is if you see vans working around the area carrying out repairs etc. The name is usually on the van.
ThanPS If you want to know who your power distribution network is  go
www2.nationalgrid.com   and look under distribution network companies. they are all shown on a map.
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Post by PLOUGHLIN on Thu Nov 05, 2015 6:33 pm

Peter Brown wrote:
PLOUGHLIN wrote:chudders, I have a house built 1975, with underground cables (no access manholes in the street either), no cableing mods have been carried out since then. I am I right that it is unlikely that my supply is PME?

It would be inappropriate to speculate.  The only way to be certain how your installation is configured is inspection/testing by a qualified electrician.

I am not a qualified Electrician, but I am now sure it is a PME supply, mainly because when I looked at the incoming junction in the garage just now there is a big label on it saying "Warning PME". allthumbz

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Post by daisy mae on Thu Nov 05, 2015 10:12 pm

I have just checked our meters and incoming supply , and "NO WARNING   PME" notice anywhere, we are just carrying on as we have done for the last 26 years.

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Post by daisy mae on Thu Nov 05, 2015 10:13 pm

Jaytee wrote:
Cymro wrote:I appreciate Chudders's kind effort to write at length. But as to the practical question "what should I do?" I'm reminded of what Mr Churchill said. When the war was at its worst for Britain, and another setback had been reported, a reporter asked Churchill how he proposed to conduct the rest of the war. He replied "Keep B*ggering On".

So will I with my hook-up!

Rock and Roll and so will I allthumbz
So will we. up!
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Post by PLOUGHLIN on Thu Nov 05, 2015 11:19 pm

So will I. allthumbz confused3

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Post by meanchris on Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:17 am

Peter Brown wrote:I made a new 'fly lead'.  The van end is a commando socket fixed to the outer wall with a flex going out of the back through the wall.  The flex is then clipped to the surface (inside garage) to the proximity of a 13A socket.  The flex is terminated with a 13A plug.  The plug is inserted into the socket when the 'fly lead' is required to connect to the van.

I have similar Peter, a simple sealed 13A socket on an outside wall with a flying lead terminated with a 13A plug which goes into a socket under the sink only when required.

As far as I can tell, you don't need 'Part p' unless the installation is major/fixed, and a simple spur is exempted. (Maybe someone knows different, if so I'll stand corrected).

I'm competent due to the nature of my work where, ridiculous though it sounds, industrial electricians and power engineers don't require 'Part P'.

Here's the important part of the FAQ for 'Part P'

"

Q4:  Will all electrical work need Building Regulations approval?

No. In general, notification will need to be given to, or full plans deposited with, a building control body only if the work is major involving one or more complete new circuits, and is not being carried out by an electrical contractor registered with an authorised competent person self-certification scheme.

Q5:  What types of electrical work are 'non-notifiable'?

The following types of work are non-notifiable:

  • Replacing accessories such as socket-outlets, control switches and ceiling roses

  • Replacing the cable for a single circuit only, where damaged, for example, by fire, rodent or impact (1)

  • Re-fixing or replacing the enclosures of existing installation components (2)

  • Providing mechanical protection to existing fixed installations (3)

  • Installing or upgrading main or supplementary equipotential bonding (4)

  • Work that is not in a kitchen or special location and does not involve a special installation (5) and consists of:
    - adding lighting points (light fittings and switches) to an existing circuit (6)
    - adding socket-outlets and fused spurs to an existing ring or radial circuit (6)
      

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